One of the most obvious characteristics of Vientiane is the splendid mixture between local architecture and customs and the ones brought by the French during the colonial period. Nowhere is the syncretism more palpable than in the Patuxai Arc, which was nonetheless built much after the French left and became one of the main features of Vientiane.

The Name

Patuxai means, in Laotian, "Gate of Triumph", and is the last name awarded to the monument. Earlier it was named Anousavary Kao, which incongruously means the "Old Monument," despite it being built quite recently, in the 1960s. The point is that everything built in Laos before the revolution had been tagged as old. The "Vertical Runway" is another popular name that refers to the fact that the cement for its construction was donated by the Americans for the construction of a runway.

The Rationale

A former French colony, Laos decided to commemorate its independence struggle with a monument resembling one of the best known features of Paris — their colonial masters’ capital.

The Monument

At first sight, Patuxai resembles the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. However a closer look shows a top which is clearly inspired by Buddhist motifs and a solid cement main body that is obviously far less attractive than the original one. To demonstrate its supremacy over the original, Patuxai features four gates, one on each side, as compared to the mere two gates of its Parisian brother. One of the most striking features is the kinnari figures, a mythological half-bird, half-woman creature. The ceiling features a beautiful and detailed artwork, mixing Western and Laotian motifs.

The Visit

The entrance to the top levels is done from below the arch and costs 1000Kip (roughly a dime); the monument is open from 8am to 5pm. While climbing to the open roof, many stalls selling knickknacks are crossed. Only the top level offers good views of the surroundings; however, the mid-levels terraces offer striking views of the structure details, especially of the elaborately ornamented roof.

The Interior

The way to the roof is done through the boxy inner space. Made out of naked cement with a wide cement staircase, the place is somewhat eerie and seems not to belong to the attractive outer side of the structure. However, it is surprisingly cool and provides thus a good reason for stopping by the stalls.

The View

The roof offers the best available view of Vientiane from within the city, including of the Mekong River. The low city appears among green patches of the dense vegetation which covers big parts of it and is oddly beautiful; all the main buildings in the city are easily recognizable from the top.

Timing

The best hours for a visit are in the late afternoon, when the harsh sub-tropical sun is softer and allows taking better pictures.

Patuxay Park holds the monument of the Victory Gate. Built in the sixties this large gate was modeled on the Arc de Triomphe in Paris but with a local flavour.

Approached via a grand boulevarde graced with ornate French style lamps the gate is one of the tallest buildings in the capital and is well worth a visit for it offers some fantastic views.

You pay a small admission fee to climb up the gate and there are two levels to take in the views. Lots of steps though.

Ignore the no photography signs - everyone else was when we visited so we took our prompt from them and started snapping away.

Although the arch itself appears very French it is when you take a closer look that you realize that the carvings and most other artwork are more Buddhist or Hindu rather than French provincial. It is interesting that all the local people we spoke to despise this huge concrete monolith.

The gardens in the park are beautifully manicured and planted. The fountains contained in the ponds are apparently "musical" (?) but were not operating the day that we visited so I can't explain further.

You can park near the monument but be aware you need to pay the self appointed parking inspectors that lurk nearby and approach you as soon as you park. At least the bike was still there when we returned although I don't think theft is a problem in this sleepy capital.

After visiting the monument the park itself is a great place to relax in whilst indulging in an ice cream and watching the passing parade of locals and tourists passing by.