Park Guell is now recognized as a Gaudi masterpiece and a UNESCO treasure of Barcelona, but it was not always a rousing success story.
Park Guell was commissioned by Eusebi Guell, the well-known patron of several of Gaudi's notable projects. In 1900, the original concept of the plan was as a residential garden city where the private homeowners would share common facilities like a market, paved streets and public squares. In the beginning, this hilly site atop Muntanya Pelada was rather isolated from the central city (it is at the northern edge of the current Gracia neighborhood, still a bit of a hike from central Barcelona). This perceived isolation was one reason why the park was deemed a failure when it was completed in 1914. Only two houses were ever built in the park, one of which was occupied by Gaudi himself for a number of years and is now the aptly named Casa-Museu Gaudi. Park Guell officially became a public city park in 1923.
There are various ways to approach Park Guell. Perhaps the most appropriate is along the Carrer d'Olot through the main gate, which is flanked by two buildings. The name of the park is spelled out on boldly colorful medallions. From here you can go uphill and follow the natural procession. As you climb the flowing central stairway, meet and greet the lizard beast with colorful scaly mosaics embedded in its surface. At the top of the stairs, there is a classical colonnade with doric-style columns supporting a flowing roof which doubles as a magnificent lookout terrace. Here you will notice the remarkable serpentine park bench, which is said to be the longest bench in the world (who measures these things?). Wander a bit and you will encounter a bizarre cave-like stone colonnade with sloping columns that look like rough palm trees, as if they were outcasts from a certain animated Flintstonian city. You can also enter through other gates and visit the park from top to bottom. However you enter, once you are within the confines of the park and Gaudi's vivid imagination, it did not seem appropriate to restrict myself to any given path because the park is so freely designed. Just meander around and enjoy the gaudy Gaudi show. This urban park is a fantasyland of wild elements, rich in imaginative details and spaces, shiny and rugged, a twisted blend of nature and architecture that will amaze and amuse.
The Casa-Museu Gaudi was the home for Gaudi for many years before he moved permanently into his studio-home at Sagrada Familia. Visiting the museum is more for hardcore fans of Gaudi. There is a garden and a arched pergola outside of the house. I find that your time can be better spent discovering interesting details of the park or surveying the city from its prominent hilltop location.