Adjoining the Basilica stands the cornerstone of temporal power in Venice - the Palazzo Ducale. The stunning pink-patterned building with its ornate arches was described by John Ruskin as "the central building of the world", and consider how many buildings of the 14th-century still survive that were not constructed by church or king, but by republic. Admittedly the republic was a place where, in Joe Strummer's words, "all the power's in the hands of the people rich enough to buy it". But then was it not ever thus?

After nosing around the exterior of the palazzo (in particular check out the column moulding by the bridge depicting The Drunkenness of Noah), head into the palace. The central courtyard is dominated by the Scala dei Giganti. It was between Sansovino's brutish Mars and Neptune that a new doge would be crowned.

Up the Scale d'Oro you will see lots of allegorical depiction (eg. depictions of Venus: in mythology Venus was born in Cyprus: the Venetians had just bullied the Cypriot queen into handing over the keys to her kingdom). The doge's apartments reveal the taste in interior decoration possessed by the rulers of the republic - mainly redesigning the fireplace mouldings so that they prominently display your own family crest (the equivalent of scrawling 'Mocenigo woz ere' over the plasterwork). Readers will probably be as fascinated as I with the Sala dello Scudo. Two huge ornate globes are displayed, and the walls are lined with maps of the world. Note the one of North America, its interior annotated with warnings of 'anthropopaghi' - cannibals. If you've ever visited Missouri you'll understand.

Continue through the areas devoted to the power-making bodies (the Collegio and Senate) with their Veroneses and Tintorettos by the bucketload. In the armoury look for the horrific toothed chastity belt. The Sala del Maggior Consiglio is worth a long stop, dominated by a 77-year-old Tintoretto's 'Il Paradiso', the largest canvas painting in the world, containing over 500 figures. It is surmounted by a glowing Christ, Madonna, and Holy Dove. A beam of light is directed downwards towards the doge's throne. The angels and saints radiate out into the shadows, implying a diminution of God's radiance the further you are from Christ. The painting was chosen by competition, and there is an electronic screen where you can survey the candidates and vote for your favourites.

In the legal chambers there are a couple of Heironymus Bosches with great little creations - booted legs, peacock tails and a spoonbill beak under a cowl. They reappear in a depiction of Hell by Il Civetta. The Inferno looks like quite a jolly place with a wide range of ingenious torments - being imprisoned in a giant bagpipe seems the cruelest!

From the legal chambers it is down to the prison cells via the infamous Bridge of Sighs.

Entry is free with a Venice card or Museum card (€11). They get busy, so go early - it opens at 9am.

The best known sight in Venice, the 15th-century Doge’s (or Ducal) Palace, or the Palazzo Ducale (as the locals know it), is an impressive building in pink and white marble. Arched colonnades, prettily rounded windows, and abundant carving decorate the palace, which was once the stronghold of not just the Doge (who had anyway become a mere figurehead in later centuries), but of the oligarchic Council of Ten.

We bought our entry tickets (€12 per person, less if you’re a student, a senior citizen, or part of a group) and entered the massive courtyard at the centre of the palace. Here, the major sight is the Giant Staircase, a structure named for the two massive marble figures that stand atop it on either side. The staircase was used exclusively for the Doge’s inaugurations.

We then made our way to the starting point of the Palazzo Ducale tour, the Golden Staircase. Vividly decorated in gilt and stucco, the staircase led us up to a corridor overlooking the courtyard. Studded in the wall of this corridor is the infamous Bocca dei Leoni (`Lion’s Mouth’), in which Venetians could drop anonymous letters denouncing fellow citizens. The Lion’s Mouth was once symbolic of the intrigue that was so much a part of Venice; today it’s blocked up with a piece of metal.

The trail next led through a series of rooms: the Doge’s Apartments and the Institutional Chambers (used by the Council of ten for judicial and legislative purposes) came first. Each of these chambers is splendidly decorated, with intricately carved and gilded wooden ceilings, and loads of paintings by some of the most famous painters of Venice- Veronese, Bellini, Tintoretto, and Bassano among them. The pictures run the gamut of subjects: there are Biblical scenes, depictions of battle, scenes from mythology (The Rape of Europa by Veronese being one of the most famous) and, as you’d probably expect, plenty of portraits of the rich and famous of Venice. The Sala del Maggior Consiglio (Great Council Hall) has a continuous panel of paintings (by Tintoretto, whose Paradiso, probably the world’s largest oil painting, is also here) depicting each of the 76 Doges of Venice. Or all except one, whose painting was summarily blacked out after he was found guilty of treason.

Beyond these luxurious apartments and offices lies the Armoury. It’s crowded with swords, shields, pikes, muskets, pistols, helmets, armour and other weaponry, all well-polished and dangerous. From the Armoury, the route moves on, over the famous Ponte Dei Sospiri (The `Bridge of Sighs’), to the graffiti-covered cells of the Prison. The Prison’s interiors are very grim and bare, and one can well imagine the despair that gripped most inmates- including perhaps Casanova, who was one of the few who succeeded in escaping!

The route leads back, again over the Ponte Dei Sospiri, to the Palazzo Ducale, where it ends.

In the final analysis, I’d say the €12 is money well spent: the palace is spectacular, the history engrossing, and the art of the finest.

The Doge's Palace is one of those required Venetian tourist sites. Its imposing white-columned facade is the first thing you see when you step off of the Alilaguna onto the island. Under moonlight, it is stunning. Not to mention, if you bought the Venice Card, you have no excuse as it is free.

Don't miss the small museum on the ground floor, which displays the original colonnades and stonework. It is small, but quite empty of visitors. Barring this, most visitors arrive at the courtyard first. It is expansive and impressive, and you may use cameras here. In fact, you can use your camera in any of the technically "outdoor" parts of the palazzo. You can also use your camera if you point it through a window. Some people were using cameras indoors and it was unclear whether this was permitted or not. Certainly, nobody stopped them from doing so.

The interior of the palace features rooms of state as well as the private rooms of the doge. He worked at home, having only to walk down a flight of stairs. Take the impressive Golden Staircase to the Doge's Apartments. Actually, you won't have much choice in where you go. Velvet-roped barriers prevent visitors from taking their own path around the palace and you will be guided much like sheep throughout. Great works of arts adorn the walls throughout these halls. If you are as impatient as I, you will pass through quickly, only briefly stopping to consider each work of art.

To reach the prisons, you cross the famous Bridge of Sighs. Crossing the Bridge of Sighs is as claustrophobic as bridges get. From the inside, the covered bridge is small. Descending into the prisons is even more harrowing. You could imagine your own fear rising, had you been clad in chains and sentenced to life in the Doge's prisons. The prisons are similar to Alcatraz, showing that conditions do not change much over the centuries. You can even make out some graffiti on the walls. A tiny courtyard that breaks up the monotony of stone hallways shows that prisoners certainly didn't get much exercise.

If only I had known about the Secret Itinerary! I read later in my guidebook that this special tour covers the torture chambers and the interrogation rooms. That's my kind of tourism.

While we were in the San Marco we booked tickets for the "Secret Itinerary" tour at the Doge's Palace. For 12,50 each, we took a guided tour of parts of the palace not open to tourists who generally come to see the inside of the Doge's Palace. We had a wonderful, articulate guide who spoke very good English and took the time answer questions and interact with the group.

We started with a brief look at the first floor rooms, huge rooms with high ceilings and magnificent art work both on the ceilings and walls. Then we made our way up secret passages to the rather dull and painting free rooms that housed some interesting characters. These 'characters' included a panel of judges that spent their nights ruling over criminals who were housed in cells on the same floor. The prisoner's cells were TINY -- granted, humans are generally taller than they were 1100 years ago. One of the most famous inmates was a certain charmer named Casanova. Part of the excitement of the tour is the tale of Casanova's bold escape. I won't spoil it by retelling it -- it's something one must travel to Venice to see and experience.

We also marvelled at the torture methods used on prisoners to 'give it up'. One notable one was the practice of hanging people by their arms above their heads until they basically dislocated.

The tour also includes information about the governing system of the time -- certainly struck me as being ahead of its time and a pity that it didn't last. One law that fascinated me was that it was illegal and lawfully punishable to litter in the canals . . . one would assume that back then the water was filthier than it is now! Also amazing was how the palace, which is basically a wood pile waiting to ignite, has survived through the years.

After the tour we could use our passes to walk around the rest of the palace. It is quite a large structure so you may want to start your day with the tour and then the palace itself. Of course, you should also take a walk through the dungeons below and the . . . Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs). The only really 'excessive' show of wealth that I noted was the Scala d’Oro (staircase). There's more of a 'tasteful' use of art as opposed to a tacky show of wealth. Unfortunately, one is not allowed to take photos . . . if you try, the old lady will give you a talking to and you don't want a talking to from an old lady.

The first things which strikes you about the Palazzo Ducale is how unusual it is. Architecturally, it's a real curio, the exterior boasting a hotchpotch of Gothic and Middle Eastern design whilst the inside is much more European.

Initially, I was a little put off at the prospect of spending a couple of hours exploring a stuffy museum on a sunny day. However, it really is worth taking the time to visit as it's one of the most unique buildings of it's type in Europe . . . and beyond.

There are tours but I would recommend arming yourself with a copy of a good guide book and following the route as signposted. The Rough Guide to Venice has an adequate section with enough detail to keep you informed without boring you to tears.

On your tour, the highlights include the Bridge of Sighs, Sala del Maggior Consiglio - the largest room in Europe - and the numerous artworks which embellish the walls.

The entrance fee of approx 10€ may seem on the pricey side but it's worth every penny.