Palacio Real de Madrid is the only royal palace where you don’t have to follow the tour guide; here you can go at your own pace. The palace was built by Francesco Sabatini, as were most of the other royal palaces. The entrance staircase is really grand with coats of arms right above the staircase and marvelous frescoes on the ceiling by Corrado Giaquinto "The Triumph of Religion". It leads to the Salones Oficiales, the first of which is Hall of Halberdiers, which was a guard-room, with Tiepolo painting of "Vulcan Forging Arms for Aeneas" on the ceiling. Next is Hall of Columns that has 17th century tapestries woven in Brussels that are based on Raphael’s "Acts of the Apostles" and vault fresco by Giaquinto "The Birth of the Sun and the Triumph of Bacchus". The Throne Room, considered the most impressive of all the royal palaces in Spain, is probably the most remarkable room in the building: 12 console tables and mirrors created by G.B. Natale, Venetian chandeliers of rock crystal and silver, canopy of Neapolitan work with embroidery in gold on crimson velvet dating back to the 18th century, walls covered in the same crimson velvet, ceiling with amazing frescoes by Tiepolo "Apotheosis of the Spanish Monarchy" –- this room is still used for various functions throughout the year. Next are the Carlos III rooms. The drawing room is the first –- here the king had lunch and vault frescoes by Mengs show "Apotheosis of Trajan", 4 paintings by Giordano depict King Solomon, Quintus Curtius and Seneca, reddish-pink color silk on the walls, in the center of the room is a sofa decorated with bronze candelabra by Thomire.

Continued in Part II

Phone: 91 454 87 02 x7240, or 91 542 00 59
Open: (Apr-Sept) Mon-Sat 9am–6pm, Sun 9am–3 pm; (Oct–March) Mon-Sat 9:30 am–5 pm, Sun 9am–2pm.
Price: 7 euros for adults, 3 euros for students
Photos allowed without flash.

The palace's 2,800 rooms compete with each other for over-the-top opulence. The palace was last used as a royal residence in 1931. Today, some of the rooms are open to the public, others are still used for state business. You can see the palace on your own for 950 ptas or pay 1000 ptas for a two-hour guided tour in English.

We have a passion for palaces and have seen many, from Versailles in Paris to Peterhof, Pushkin and Pavlovsk Palaces in St Petersburg; the Munich and Wurzburg Residenz(es) and Neuschwanstein in Germany; the Kungliga Slottet in Stockholm; Fredericksborg, Rosenborg and Christianborg in Copenhagen, etc. but Palacio Real remains our favorite for the most tasteful and elegant palace. The rooms are literally stuffed with art treasures and antiques. Rooms after rooms it is the symbol of monumental grandeur, with no apologies for the best damask, mosaics, stucco, Tiepolo ceilings, gilt and bronze, chandeliers. Look for frescoes by Tiepolo and Giaquinto; paintings by Goya, Rubens, Valezquez, and El Greco; dozens of Flemish and Spanish tapestries, and endless dazzling rococo decorations.

If you're rushed, the Reception Room and State Apartments which include a rococo room with a diamond clock and a porcelain salon should get priority. The Royal Chapel, the Throne Room and the Banquet Room, where receptions for heads of state are still held are also highlights. The Armory with the finest collection of weaponry in Spain and the Pharmacy should also be visited.

If your visit falls on the first Wednesday of the month, look for the changing of the guard ceremony, which occurs at noon and is free to the public.