We were really pleased to have stumbled across this small museum on the outskirts of Amsterdam’s Red Light District. The history of this "hidden" church makes the viewing even more interesting, especially as one of our friends is a staunch Catholic. The story goes, if I recall it correctly, that in the late 1500s, Catholicism was banned and Catholic churches were locked throughout the city. However, in the mid-1600s, a wealthy local trader decided to build his own place of worship to enable the clandestine prayer meetings of dedicated Catholics to be held in a befitting environment. The suggestion is that, by this time, Catholics were tolerated as long as they were not displaying their faith for all to see.
Mr. Hartman built his house and retail outlet (he sold socks!), while on the top two floors, he created his "secret catholic Church," seating up to a 200-strong congregation. It is suggested that it was always packed enough to be overflowing, so the local oppressors must have thought that Hartman’s sock business was booming!
Although there were several such churches, "Our Dear Lord in the Attic" has been perfectly preserved and amazingly has all the elements you’d expect of a church, including a fine but fairly compact balcony. I felt that the balcony floor was a little rickety so I didn’t linger too long up there, but the view of the small church is great from here if you don’t suffer from vertigo. Make sure you check out the silverware and marvel at the fantastic paintings
There are church icons, statues, a magnificent organ, and a fold-away altar made out of a mock marble. There’s a priests confessional on the landing and what purports to be a hidey-hole under the stairs. If you were searching for a wayward priest, I think you wouldn’t have too much difficulty finding him!
Before you leave the church, make sure you check out the windows – there are some interesting views of the canals and a section of the Red Light District. I just contemplated, momentarily, how all those 200-plus voices and the organ-playing hymns would not have been heard from the streets below.
On the lower floors, the rooms are set-up as they would have been in the 17th century, the suggestion being that all of the furniture was originally found in the house and was returned here after the building was restored in the 1800s. The basement kitchen is delft tiled, and there are plain but well constructed pieces of furniture. Certainly this wealthy trader knew how to take care of his servants! The servant’s bedroom is bright and well-furnished, and generally the quality of the construction of the house exudes wealth.
There are regular but infrequent services that are still held in the church, but I think you have to give advance notice of your intention to worship here.
This is a popular museum – understandably so.