Continued from Part 1
The largest hall in the museum is not surprisingly dedicated to the Mexica --
more often known as the Aztecs, although the Aztecs was just one nation in a
much larger grouping. In this hall, much more information is available on all
aspects of this fascinating civilization. Minor information boards are once
again in Spanish only but all general aspects of Mexica life and culture are in
both English and Spanish.
The main display in this hall is also the pride of the Museum and Mexico --
the massive round Sun Stone. This stone was lost after the destruction of the
Major Temple complex of Tenochtitlán by the Spanish conquistadors in 1521, but
was rediscovered in the center of Mexico in 1790. It is often incorrectly
described as the Aztec calendar, but in reality forms only a part of it. (Most
postcards and even most books on sale in the Museum shop still call it the Aztec
Calendar, although newer ones refer to it somewhat grudgingly as the "Sun Stone
(Aztec Calendar)."
Other displays here include paintings and models of what Tenochtitlán and
the Mayor Temple complex looked like prior to destruction and rebirth as Mexico
City in the 16th century. The larger stone statues and round stone altars
receive the most attention, but there are also interesting smaller items of note. These range from items of every day use, such as vessels and kitchen utensils, to religious paraphernalia, such as incense burners with the most bizarre carvings. Always popular are the knives made of obsidian stone and decorated with sinister smiling faces made of stones inlays. These surprisingly small knives were used in the "cut out the heart" ceremonies that were a central part of the Mexica religious views in which the blood offerings of human captives were used to return blood and thus life to the earth via the Sun and war god.
The Mexica and especially the Aztecs were predominantly warrior nations. It
should therefore not be surprising that their scientific, art and
architectural achievements did not really surpass those of other civilizations
that lived slightly earlier in Mexico. This can be seen vividly when the Mexica
is compared with the exhibits in the hall dedicated to the civilizations that
lived in the present state of Oaxaca. For me of particular interest here is the
civilization of the Zapotecas who lived in Monte Alban just outside the present-day city of Oaxaca. This civilization reached its peak between 300 and 700 A.D.
and among other things performed some kind of brain surgery! Skulls have been
found that were opened and the patients survived several years after. The search
for the herbs and medicines that were used to control both pain and infection
are still continuing in the valleys of Oaxaca.
National Museum of Anthropology
Paseo de la Reforma
Chapultepec, Mexico City
Open: 09:00 - 18:00, Tue - Sun