The best time to visit the Musei Vaticani is in the afternoon, the closer to 1pm (which is lunchtime), the better. We tried it, and were inside the museums, clutching our tickets (€12 per person), within 10 minutes of having joined the queue.
Someone estimated that if you spent 8 hours everyday at the Musei Vaticani, with a minute at each exhibit and one hour off for lunch, it would take you 12 years to complete the circuit. That should give you an idea of how vast this collection is. It exemplifies the grandeur and the wealth of the Vatican, actually, which is mirrored in the Basilica next door.
But for those who can’t afford to spend 12 years seeing the Musei Vaticani, there’s a shorter route through the top attractions of the museums. We followed the crowd, through a series of rooms, and though we almost certainly didn’t see even a hundredth of the exhibits, we were pretty satisfied with what we did see.
We began with a tour of the rooms that house marble statues from ancient Greece and Rome. Among the most stunning (and famous) works here are the Laocoön Group, depicting Laocoön and his two sons battling sea serpents; the Belvedere Torso; and Perseus with the head of Medusa.
From here, we wandered on, past the Room of Raffaelo’s Tapestries (the tapestries were woven in Brussels based on cartoons created by Raphael); the Room of Maps (a long, airy gallery with frescoes of medieval maps); and the Room of Chiaruscuros. This room, in particular, was exceptionally striking. It was decorated with paintings of people in black, white and shades of grey, and each painting had a wonderful three-dimensional effect that almost made it look like relief.
The `quick route’ through the museums took us past a series of rooms, most covered with murals executed by Michelangelo and his students. En route, we also stepped briefly into more modern times- in the Borgia Rooms, which contain Christian art by masters such as Gauguin, Van Gogh and Salvador Dali- there’s a `crucifixion’ by Dali that’s absolutely mesmerising.
Our tour of the Musei Vaticani ended at its most famous section, the Sistina Cappella or the Sistine Chapel. As just about everybody knows, the walls and ceiling of this splendid chapel showcase the genius of Michelangelo: the Creation of Man, the Fall of Man, the Last Judgement, the Temptations of Christ, and many more depictions of Biblical episodes adorn the room. The colours are vivid, the figures perfectly portrayed, the musculature anatomically correct. And although other masters- including Botticelli and Roselli- worked on the chapel, it’s really Michelangelo who made it what it is.
Photography’s allowed in the Musei Vaticani but not in the Sistina Capella. Also note that since it’s a place of worship, you have to be decently clad (no bare shoulders or knees), and you have to keep mum. Ushers at the door constantly hush the crowds flocking into the chapel.