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jwagner
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Editor Pick

Murano

  • October 7, 2008
  • Rated 2 of 5 by Joy S from Manchester, United Kingdom
Murano

We took a trip to the neighbouring island of Murano. It is most famous for its glass making factories and tourists stroll along the main canalsides which have glass shops and showrooms.

In 1291 Venice's glass furnaces were all moved to this island to protect the city from outbreaks of fire.

Glass is still Murano's trade, although it is a tourist attraction and lots of the glass on sale comes from China! It is a good place to buy gifts though and when we went on a Monday morning, the shops were all uncrowded.

A lot of the stuff for sale is hideous - the small novelty items, horses and chandeliers were, I thought quite tacky, however if you look around, you can find some minimal and stylish pieces.

We were given a "free" boat ride to Murano on check-in at our hotel, but I had read not to do this, so we avoided it. Apparently if you take up this offer, you are expected to buy and pressurised very heavily. We did not fancy experiencing this, so made our own way to the island on the 41 waterbus.

We got off at Faro landing stage and actually walked around the island three times before we actually found a working furnace. They are not very clearly signposted. We wanted to see a glass blowing demonstration.

We paid 1 Euro each to enter a small factory and 50 cents for our son. A guide gave a very brief overview of the art and we watched a craftsman blow one vase and make a glass horse. It was skillful and interesting, but very speedy. Before we knew it we were bustled quickly into their shop and showroom.

We didn't like anything for sale there, but fortunately there was no pressure to buy.

We quite enjoyed our trip to the island, but unless you have lots of time and really feel your trip to Venice would be lacking unless you saw some glass blowing, I would give Murano a miss. Perhaps in the past when most of the glass was not imported, it would have been an impressive place to go. Now, although scenic and very pretty, the glass blowing is really a thing of the past.

From journal 3 Nights in Venice

Editor Pick

Murano

  • May 22, 2007
  • Rated 4 of 5 by artslover from Calgary, Alberta
Murano

We were at the bus station and discovered there you can take the direct vaporetto to Murano. We travelled over some rather choppy water to Murano, the closest island to Venice.

An alternative to the vaporetto for getting to Murano are the free taxis run or sponsored by the glass shops. But beware, if you don't buy anything, they will not give you a free ride back to Venice.

Murano is like a Venice in miniature. It's called an island but like Venice it is a number of islands with canals and connecting bridges.

We visited here because my husband is interested in glass blowing and does it as an amateur. Glass blowers were banished to Murano in the 12th century because of fears about the fires which could be caused by the furnaces necessary for glass making.

The place has seemingly endless glass shops lining the main streets and the difficulty is figuring out which are selling authentic Murano glass and which are made in China.

We visited the Museo di Vetri (Fondamenta Giustinian 8, 30121 Murano, closed Wedsday, admission € 5), the glass museum, which has some good explanatory displays about the glass making process and its history. After, we wandered about looking at the furnaces, the glass blowing studios. The small ones were not in operation when we looked in but the large ones seemed all to be operating. Glass blowing is fascinating to watch. Seemingly hard glass become liquid when heated and the things that these experts can do are amazing.

Of course, we bought some souvenirs and my husband got some murrinis, glass rods, when cut look like flower designs. He hopes to incorporate them into something he makes in the future.

The back streets away from the glass shops of Murano are also interesting. Quiet like Venice and more people who don't speak English. The tiny church of Santa Maria e Donato is a fascinating pattern of brick work.

The direct vaporetto drops you back in Venice near Piazza San Marco. Murano is a quick trip outside of Venice and an educational peak into the very old and beautiful craft of glassblowing.

From journal Getting lost in Venezia

Editor Pick

Murano

  • February 18, 2007
  • Rated 4 of 5 by Liam Hetherington from Manchester, United Kingdom
Murano

The island of Murano sits to the north-east of Venice itself. Almost a miniature of Venice it comes complete with a Grand Canal, at least one outstanding church, and the inevitable tourists. But one thing above all attracts them - glass.

In 1291 Venice's glass furnaces were moved to Murano to contain the risk of fires. Already Venice had achieved a reputation as the paramount site for glass artifice. Practically imprisoned on Murano, the craftsmen whose wares brought such high prices were allowed to marry into nobility and wear swords, but were forbidden from leaving the island for fear that they might take the secrets of their art with them.

Their legacy lives on today. The main route up the Fondamenta dei Vetri from the Colonna veporetto stop and around to the Museo Vetrario is lined with salesrooms displaying their technicolour wares. Thankfully, sales techniques are very low-key - by coming to Murano you have already admitted that you are looking to buy. Pressure from salespersons is not very apparent. The larger finer pieces can reach astonishing prices, but you can get paperweights, clocks and bottle-stoppers from €10 up. For me the bright multicoloured souvenirs can look very garish, but there is clearly a market for them. The trick is in browsing around - prices vary. Buying direct on Murano saves you money from the prices in the showrooms around St Mark's Square in Venice, plus you are guaranteed that these are official Murano products, not cheap imports.

The Museo Vetrario (entrance free with Venice Card, €4 otherwise) showcases some of the finest works - principally the the 15th century Barovier marriage cup. Exhibits range from the delicate and simple to the ghastly and showy (mostly the more modern works). It is closed on Wednesdays.

One place not to miss, and in my opinion the second finest church in all Venice (after the Basilica) is the church of Maria e Donato up past the Museum. It is a twelfth-century Romanesque construction of warm honey-hued stone. I found the church empty, silent and peaceful, though it is obviously still a focal point of the parish. There are a couple of icons, a superb mosaic floor, and some bones hanging behind the altar - supposedly those of a dragon killed when St Donatus spat at it! There is also a stunning modern baptismal font fashioned of multicoloured Murano glass. Peering into its shiny depths is like looking into a glowing kaleidoscope. I envy any baby baptised there.

From journal We Open In Venice...

Venetian Glass- Murano

  • November 8, 2005
  • Rated 5 of 5 by susiejwp from Coralville, Iowa
I am the first to admit I have developed a real appreciation and love for the fine art of Venetian glass, and visiting this shop only further cemented this love.

Within the walls of this small shop lie some of the most beautifully wrought examples of Venetian art in the area. All colors of the spectrum dance around the walls of this shop while sunlight plays on the fine glass displayed upon its shelves.

Once again I gave into the urge to purchase glass here. The choices were endless, fom the smallest of pieces to finely blown paper weights and glassware and finally to some of the most delicate and breathtaking examples of glassware I have ever seen! Even if I had had the budget or the inclination to purchase such pieces I would have been loathe to do so, in fear of them breaking while traveling throughout Italy. Although they do ship pieces and promise to pack them well, I still gave pause and settled for a much smaller piece, which I felt more comfortable carrying around.

The bottom line is this: a trip to Venice is not complete unless you view firsthand the beauty and artistry of blown glass and this shop is one that has example after example of such an art on display. It is well worth the visit and well worth the search (for some shops can be hard to locate in this city), but it is a hunt well worth the time.

Ciao!

From journal Venice, Italy: Trip through history in a gondola!

Glass from Murano

  • November 8, 2005
  • Rated 5 of 5 by susiejwp from Coralville, Iowa

The sun through the windows into a rainbow of color and form. Never had I see such glitter and glow in one place! This store was fantastic! From the tiniest of hand blown curios to large vases and bowls, this shop has something for everyone, and for everyone's pocket as well! I was enthralled with the selection here, for though a small store it had an amazing selection and amazing prices as well!

If you are looking for a bargain, pass by this shop; it is definitely priced on the high end of the scale, but I can assure you that the sheer beauty of the items on display when you return home will make you forget how truly pricey they really were.

I also would be remiss if I did not mention how helpful and kind the employees are in this shop. I was pleased with their helpful manner and the care they put into wrapping each individual piece so it would survive the trip home. Their customer service, if nothing else, will cause me to return to this shop when I next visit the city!

From journal Venice, Italy: Trip through history in a gondola!

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