The town where Mozart was born obviously makes a lot of mileage out of its most famous scion. And the Mozart Geburtshaus- where he was born, today a museum- is among the city’s most important links to the great composer.
The house at 9, Getreidegasse was first constructed in the 12th century, and was occupied by various families until 1747, when Leopold Mozart moved in on the third floor with his bride, Anna Maria Pertl. The Mozarts lived here for the next twenty-six years, bearing seven children. Of these, only two- Wolfgang Amadeus (born 1756) and Maria Anna Walburga `Nannerl’ (born 1751) survived childhood.The International Mozart Foundation converted the house into a museum way back in 1880, but the current form of the museum is only about twelve years old. Even when we visited, it was undergoing renovations and changes, with restyling being done by Robert Wilson.
The Mozart Museum spreads across a series of rooms, beginning at the room where he was born. In the centre of this room is a white wooden crib in which is laid a baby-sized doll: very spooky. On the walls, and in the adjacent rooms, are paintings, sketches and silhouettes of Mozart and his family. As you go from one wooden-floored room to the next, you see more Mozart memorabilia: locks of his hair (rather a lot of this: the poor man either lost a lot of hair, or got chased by fans waving barber scissors); an embroidered silk wallet; an agate tobacco case; violins (including one he owned as a child), and sheets of music written in his own hand. In addition, there are dioramas depicting a performance of a Mozart opera; details of opera costumes; and information about the opera singers of Mozart’s time.
The sections designed by Robert Wilson combine the classicism of Mozart’s age with twenty-first century art. In one room, glass cases embedded in the black walls hold exhibits; in another, Mozart’s biography is written in flowing white calligraphy, in different languages, all across the dark brown walls. In yet another highly unusual room, old framed prints of Salzburg city hang upside-down in a room that’s upside-down too: a three-dimensional model of Salzburg hangs from the ceiling, its spires and domes reaching down towards a floor that’s pierced by tiny pinpricks of illuminated star-like glass. Interesting, pretty- though not particularly relevant to Mozart as a theme, perhaps.
We shelled out €6 per person to visit the museum, and were, truth to tell, somewhat dissatisfied. Okay, this was Mozart’s house, but in a Mozart Museum, I’d really have expected much more that actually related to the man himself. The museum tells you lots about opera, banquets, medieval Salzburg, and the like- maybe it could have concentrated a bit more on Mozart.
The Mozart Geburtshaus is open daily from 9 to 6, extending up to 7 in July and August. Get there early, because it tends to fill up fast.