The reason is probably that we ended up going quite late, and were probably the last people let in before the temple area was closed for the night. It being December, it was already very dark, creating a wonderfully mystical atmosphere with the contrast of the illuminated pathways and the blackness of the surrounding hills, where rows of twinkling lights were visible all the way far into the distance.

There are many places from which you can get a beautiful view of either the hills or the actual city below. If you go up to the top at night time, the various buildings of the temple are partially lit, making them stand out of the darkness like magical giants, framed by scrawny leafless trees whose bony fingers reach out in every direction.

The digital camera that I'd bought a few weeks earlier in Tokyo has a night setting that gives everything a glowing, warmer appearance, and I got quite excited snapping away at everything, espcially the lights in the hills and ghoulish winter trees. I don't have them saved here unfortunately, so I can't upload them onto here at the moment, but will attmempt to do so later if I get the chance.

Either way Kiyomizy-dera is something quite spectacular and quite apart from other temples around due to its setting, whether you choose to go during the day or at night. However, if you are interested in something in an even more exotic setting, check out my journal on the Fushimi-Inari Taisha (a short train journey from both Kyoto and Nara, about half-way between the two). (There is an admission fee of -- I think -- about 600 yen to Kiyomizu-dera.)

One tip is to try to avoid coming during October as this is the school sightseeing-trip season! Regardless of the crowds, it's a lovely spot to visit!

I visited the complex during the day and also during a special night opening. The daytime was certainly crowded enough, but during the nighttime seemingly every person in Japan was in line trying to enter the complex. There always seems to be a controlled carnival atmosphere here, with worshippers bowing to the gods and photographers acknowledging the wonderful details and scenery. The main hall has a wide wooden veranda that is a popular viewing platform for panoramic views of the city below. 139 giant pillars, anchoring it onto the steep slope, prop up part of the main hall. The reddish-orange color draws attention to the lofty pagoda.

The best way to approach the temple is by walking down the Kiyomizu-zaka, a somewhat touristy but fun little street with shops selling ceramics, religious souvenirs, and alluring snacks. There are other little streets and teapot lanes branching off from Kiyomizu-zaka. You are bound to run into shopkeepers selling "yatsuhashi", triangular sweets made from bean paste. Feel free to have a small sample of this local specialty. A cool and slightly bitter treat is green tea ice cream, usually in a soft serve cone format and sometimes swirled with vanilla flavor.