Geology
The way the tour guide Kathy describes it, the island of Molokai was once a large shield volcano. About one million years ago, half the island fell off into the sea, leaving the dramatic vertical cliffs that we see today. After this, a bubble of lava came up from the sea forming the flat piece of land (Kalaupapa means "flat leaf") now connected to the steep north shore. There are no roads reaching Kalaupapa-–the only access is by trail, boat, or airplane. A major supply barge comes just once a year to the peninsula (big party!), and perishable goods are flown in weekly. Bring your own lunch, you are not allowed to purchase these precious supplies!

History
Because of this geographic separation, Kalaupapa became the site of some human injustices lasting 100 years. During the 1860s, there was an outbreak of leprosy (Hansen’s Disease) in Hawaii. King Kamehameha V signed an act authorizing the isolation of people with the disease. Families were separated, often without a chance to say goodbye, as people were quarantined to various areas around the Hawaiian Islands, including about 8000 people to Kalaupapa. There were hundreds of "orphan" children and many people too sick to care for themselves. Over time, some very important and caring people came to Kalaupapa to care for the sick, and provide compassion and dignity. Father Damien, Brother Dutton, and Mother Marianne are remembered on Kalaupapa and are discussed on the tour. Tour guide Richard Marks describes Father Damien as "the right man and the right place at the right time."

Although Hansen’s Disease was cured in 1949, the isolation of patients continued until 1969. At this time, former patients were allowed to leave the peninsula. Many did leave, but many stayed on Kalaupapa. Today, 40 former patients live on Kalaupapa plus 60 Department of Health and National Park Service employees who administer the area.

A visit to Kalaupapa will take some advance planning. The only way to visit it is to know someone who lives there, or to take a guided tour. The only guided tour is Damien Tours (808)567-6171, call 4pm-8pm. Tours are once daily Monday to Saturday, and last 3-4 hours, cost $30pp. The tour guides are Richard Marks (former patient, current Kalaupapa resident, and current sheriff), and Kathy (current resident, former park ranger).

You can reach the peninsula for the tour by foot, by mule, or by airplane. The hike is 3 miles each way with 1600 feet elevation loss/gain. Damien Tours can provide directions to the trailhead. Leave by 8:15am to get ahead of the mules. To ride a mule, contact Molokai Mule Ride at (800)670-6503 -- price is $150pp including lunch and land tour. To fly, contact Pacific Wings.

You can either fly from Ho'olehua Airport (~$100 rt), take a mule ride ($150/pp) on the trail, or hike ($30 for the tour) the trail. We opted to do the latter, which means calling up Damien Tours (808=567-6171) in advance.

The hike is steep, with 26 switchbacks. However, the trail is well maintained, with barriers to prevent you from tumbling over the cliff. Still this is not a path for the acrophobic (and I don't think the mule ride would make it any less scary!) While it is theoretically possible to get down it in the 1h 15m that local guidebooks indicate, I would suggest you allow for up to 1.5 to 2 hours to descend and take pictures. Start down by 8am, before the mules depart, unless you like plodding though fresh mule droppings.

Since this is still an active leper colony, you must have a reservation with Damien Tours to visit the pennisula. Wandering about on your own is expressly forbidden - and probably dangerous given the number of blind drivers on the local roads. The mandatory 3 hour tour takes you to Kalaupapa, Kalawao (the original leper colony), and the overlook to the world's tallest seacliffs (2000ft+). You will be overwhelmed by both the beauty and the tales of misery here.

A note for the squeamish: Hansen's Disease (aka Leprosy) is barely contagious, and is not contagious at all when it has been treated. The restrictions for visiting here(no children under 16, everyone on a tour) are more for the protection of the few residents who remain than for visitors.

If you're going to Maui too, there's great information at
www.mauihawaii.org