Just past Wailuku, administrative centre of Maui, the Iao Valley Road (Hwy 320 off Hwy 32) rises into the West Maui Mountains, snaking its way between jagged cliffs as it follows the Iao Stream towards the walls of the Pu'u Kukui Crater.

The main feature of this most sacred and historic of sites is the majestic Iao Needle, which lies at the end of the paved road.

Once used as a natural altar by native Kahunas (Priests), the towering 1,200-foot, basaltic, rich green carpet-covered pillar of rock has survived eons of water erosion to stand proud in this, one of the world's wettest places.

When you stand here looking at this peaceful park with its well-maintained trails and gardens, it's difficult to imagine that this great rock once bore silent witness to one of the most momentous events of Maui history. In 1790, King Kamehameha I, using Western weapons and tactics, trapped and annihilated the Maui army in the battle of Kepaniwai as part of his effort to unite the Hawaiian Islands -- it is said that the waters of the Iao Stream ran red with the blood of his enemies.

There are plenty of great walking trails here and good facilities. Remember to bring some water and mosquito repellant and try and make it here in the morning, when the peak of the Iao Needle is often obscured by clouds.

Other attractions along the road to the needle include the beautiful setting of the Kepaniwai Heritage Gardens, which is a picturesque park and picnic area frequented by the locals. Scattered around the park are model houses reflecting the various ethnic groups that came to the island, including a thatched Hawai'ian 'hale' (house) and examples of Portuguese, Japanese and American architecture.

Next to this is the Hawai'i Nature Centre, which also does hiking and other outdoor educational activities. Also here is the 'Iao Valley Interactive Science Arcade', an innovative museum that features games and displays about the islands' flora and fauna.

If you take your time, there is plenty to do in this wonderful Valley to take up a whole day . . .

Just beyond Kahului, lies the village of Wailuku. Nestled into the I`oa Valley and stream that empties into the ocean, this charming village, former center of Maui commerce and government, is loaded with sights and charms.

Driving through the downtown you will notice some distinctive municipal and historical buildings, the land trust, the library, and the Bailey museum. But the grand verdant mountain tops that frame the little town will likely beckon you beyond the town limits, down the winding two lane road that leads to the I`oa Needle state park.

Within minutes you will enter the pristine and peaceful valley that was the location of many a meaningful battle during the age of warring between the former Hawaiian kings. It was here that King Kamahameha overthrew the Maui king by hauling a cannon (stolen from a western ship) up the valley and annihalating the surprised Maui warriors. It is also here that ancient royals are buried in a cave, the exact location of which has been long since lost to history.

Regardless of the historical significance of the I`oa Valley, visitors will find a feast for the eyes; the I`oa Needle, the waterfalls that surge from the stream, the lush tropical foliage of this rain forest wonderland. There is also a little hiking trail here and an example of Hawaiian style taro gardens.

On your way back from the I`oa Needle, you may want to stop at the turnoff marked, "Museum." Japanese gardens and pagodas are set in a lovely park as a tribute to the culture and influence of the Japanese and Asian cultures that contributed so much to Hawaii‘s development.

Down the road toward town, a second museum sign points you toward the Bailey Museum. It was here that Edward Bailey and his family, teachers from Boston, lived and established a woman‘s Seminary. Recognizing the importance of education for native Hawaiians, governor of Maui, Hoapi’ili authorized the building of this seminary where young women were boarded and taught meaningful life skills. The small museum houses important artifacts and insights into the Hawaiian culture and has some of Maui’s most amazing examples of ancient crafts such as outrageously beautiful feather and shell leis and calabash bowls. One of the only intact wood carvings of the half man-half pig of Hawaiian mythology is on display here.

Strolling around town I happened upon the lovely old theater where a performance of "Hot L Baltimore" was currently being stage by the Maui Theater company. Across the street, a farmer’s market was in full swing. Pineapples the size of pumpkins ($2), brilliant tomatoes (3/$1), long beans, organic lettuces, perfect yellow/green papaya (2/$1) , were hawked by little Asian ladies who used hand signals to communicate. For a moment I became so absorbed in the scene that I forgot I was still in America!

It really is amazing what you encounter in Maui when you wander just a wee bit off the beaten path.

Randy and I left the wives and kids by the pool to go check out the Iao Valley and the famous Iao Needle. The drive up the Iao Valley Rd was beautiful but like all popular attractions in Hawaii, nice drives eventually wind up in parking lots full of tour buses and unfortunately the Iao Valley State Park is no exception. After circling the lot a few times we secured a spot. The turnover of visitors is fairly rapid so you shouldn't have any trouble getting a spot even at peak times.

The grounds are immaculately maintained and although we were a little disappointed that our "hike" turned out to be not much more that a leisurely stroll, the view of the Iao Needle rock formation is beautiful. It's easy to see why this is a sacred spot.

As we backtracked on Iao Valley Rd., we stopped at Kepaniwai Park and what a great little find it turned out to be. This park is dedicated to all of Hawaii's people and features several buildings from different cultures including a Hawaiian grass shack, a Portuguese Villa, and a New England salt box, among others. We were there on the weekend when the park is definitely a favorite of the locals not to mention the wedding party that was being photographed.

Intent on doing some more exploring, Randy and I decided to return back to the Embassy Resort via the north road where up to few years ago, rental cars feared (and were forbidden) to go. What a spectacular drive! The road twists and turns -- watch out for oncoming cars and falling rock or you might find yourself plummeting off a cliff. Fortunately, there are no tour buses to contend with here. The views are incredible and the small towns are best described as "sleepy". The drive is longer than it looks on the map so make sure you have enough gas. We stopped several times along the way to drink in the views. Once we reached Fleming Park and civilization we took a quick detour through Kapalua and Napili to see how the rich folk were doing. Personally, I preferred the remoteness of the road we just traveled instead.

6 acres with paved walking paths that render serene views. Picturesque and photographic, loaded with tourists. Lots of those buses, but you can see why. Lots of lush landscaping. Spend an hour or so. This is the site where the invading King Kamehameha The Great once defeated Maui forces. You will see his statue all over the island, and in Honolulu. His statue is not here, however. Iao Needle reaches 1200 feet into the sky. Huge fan palms, tree fern, ti, ohia, wild orchids, chameleons,and moonstones in the stream beds,called Kepaniwai, the damning of the waters, can be spotted here.( For so many men were killed here that their bodies choked the stream and the Wailuka River ran red with blood.) Iao Valley means " Valley of the Kings". It took 10 thousand human lifetimes to form it, for the streams to cut so deeply into the heart of Mauna Kahala-wai, for the rain to so dramatically carve the walls, for the distinctive "needle" to assume its remarkable 1200 foot thrust, piercing the midst, that glides in ghostly vapors between the forested walls. A natural amphitheater marks the head of the valley. The floor of this remarkable notch in the mountains is more that 2000 feet above sea level. Mark Twin called it the "Yosemite of the Pacific" and Robert Louis Steveson called it " viridescent".

The Iao Valley State Park has numerous trails for hiking. In the main part of the park the trails are paved so they are accessible to every level hiker, but where the paving ends, footpaths lead on into the thick greenery. The further you go the less well traveled the trail. The park is small only about 6 acres, but with all the trails it seems bigger.

The Iao needle is 1,200 feet tall. There was a battle fought here in 1790 called the Battle of Kepaniwai.