"Come on you lubbers! Put some bloody effort into it!"An colonial overseer stood stood over a group of children making ropes. He bawled them out to work faster.
Of course this wasn't an Australian penal colony in the 1830s but Sydney's best historical museum - the Hyde Park Barracks. The overseer wasn't a cruel colonial guard but a volanteer showing schoolchildren in 2005 what life was life back then complete with authentic period costume and dialogue. A fantasy? Well, I had to suppress a chuckle—those kids certainly worked faster.
The Hyde Park Barracks are a terrific attraction on the edge of the CBD on Hyde Park. This is where Australia began and was where convicts were kept on arrival at the penal settlement. Made of the local yellow sandstone, the Barracks is a compound with historic buildings dating back to 1819 and surrounded by a high wall. It was built by Francis Greenway, a man convicted of forgery and transported but originally studied under Nash - the man who built Bath. And there is a touch of the English city in the glowing sandstone with its wide frontage and clock tower. Despite its elegance, it was a secure hold for male convicts (females were not kept there until 1848). It also served time as a female infirmary, a destitute asylum, a government office, and court, and since 1979, a museum.
The exhibts were fascinating and I spent two hours there. The illustrations of early Sydney were absorbing - a cottage on Observatory hill with bouganvillea around the door and convicts working in the fields. The records of those brought over in the 19th century were harrowing especially their captivity in "hulks" in English ports before being transported to prison ships and taken to the other side of the world. They recreated a convict dorm complete with swinging hammocks. Here they were watched day and night just in case they got up to any hanky panky - homosexuality being a transporting offence back in the early 19th century.
It was the stories behind the pictures which really worked for me. One girl from the North of England was caught horse-stealing, she was transported and became a nanny to a rich family in Parramatta. She eventually served her term, married well, and eventually became the richest woman in the colony.
A few metres away across the Domain is
Royal Botanical Gardens. Once upon a time they featured convict vegetable gardens and now every conceivable Australian flora sweeping down to the sea. There is a beautiful ivy covered cafe in the gardens where ibis' strut their stuff. And not far away were dozens of fruit bats dangling from the branches of trees, their faces turned towards you and it felt they were following you with their foxy eyes.