I have admired Andrew Jackson and his wife, Rachel Donelson, ever since I read the Irving Stone novel The President’s Lady. Theirs is a love story that transcends the ages. You have to love a man who would say, "Heaven would be no heaven to me if Rachel isn’t there." Visiting the Hermitage was, for me, a dream come true. This is the second largest presidential site in the country, but it is also very much a family home. It is unique in that it has almost all its original furnishings, right down to the wallpaper, which dates to the early 1800s. The Jacksons had many guests visit them during their lifetimes, and that tradition is still carried on today. There are costumed guides who take you through the house on tours. They will give you details of the lives of the Jacksons, their adopted sons Andrew and Lyncoya, their granddaughter Rachel, and Alfred, one of their slaves. There is a 15-minute video that you can watch in the visitor center to familiarize yourself with the history of the Hermitage.
The Hermitage is not a static property, even though history stopped being made here 150 years ago. There is ongoing site development. Every summer, an archeological site is developed; they are trying to piece together the lives of the slaves, who have been for the most part neglected in the historical records. Visitors are allowed to sift through the dirt looking for artifacts and to question the archeologists. One of the newer additions is a wagon tour highlighting slave life at the Hermitage.
There is a construction project as well. The original Hermitage, which was a log cabin, is being restored to the way it was during the slave era, 1820 to 1865, when it was used as housing. HGTV will be doing a program about it.
The house is not large, but it has been beautifully maintained. All the rooms are behind glass and you have to view them from the halls. There is a man who greatly resembles the General (what President Jackson preferred to be called) and who entertains visitors with anecdotes and will pose for pictures. We spent quite a long time talking to him.
You will want to allow at least an hour to tour the grounds. Alfred’s cabin still stands on the property, and I walked out to the original Hermitage site. Lastly, you will want to walk in the garden and visit the graves of Andrew and Rachel. There is a small family cemetery on one side. You will also notice Alfred’s grave alongside the Jacksons’ tomb. He gave back all the household artifacts that he had accumulated in his many years there in exchange for this privilege—a testimony to his love for the General.
Finish your visit with a stop at their store and a snack at Monell’s. The store is a very nice one, and Monell’s will teach you what meat and three means.