There was a group surfing lesson going on while we were there, and while I myself was not brave enough to try, it seemed like even a beginner would have felt comfortable in the group. Some surfers were riding the waves further out at sea, away from the protection of the relatively calm bay. And there was a really cool section of water where we were able to walk out to sea maybe about 50-100 yards and still be knee-deep in water! Although the tide started coming in pretty quickly, so we had to scramble to get out!

Hanalei town is small and hippy-ish and charming. We ate at a restaurant called Tahiti Nui which had a limited menu of fresh mahi mahi and burgers and fries, that kind of thing. A perfect, pretty cheap place to grab a bite and be on our way!

Start by making the batter:

Take three cups of sifted ancient Hawai’i, aged about a thousand years. Keep in mind that several of Kaua’i’s most sacred spots, or hei’au, are nearby, such as Ka-ulu-Paoa, where the art of hula first began, and Makana Mountain (also known as "Bali Hai"), one of two sites where the famous fire throwing ceremony, ’oahi, was performed long ago.

To this, add a cup of missionary oil. This is easily obtained from Wai’oli Mission House, built in 1837 and still standing, or the lovely Wai’oli Hui’ia Church, a fine example of early Hawaiian/American architecture, where hymns are still sung in Hawaiian every Sunday.

To help the batter rise, add a goodly dollop of community spirit, typified by the hardworking Asian immigrants who first worked the rice fields and established businesses here early in the last century.

Allow the mixture to rise for about a century, resting on the shores of one of the loveliest bays in Hawaii, with its famous pier featured in "South Pacific." Then place it into the oven of the 21st century.

Frosting:

This is comprised of all the delightful, laid-back activities, shops, restaurants, and people in the area. Keep the balance just right: upscale eateries across from humble taco stands, wealthy arrivistes chatting with back-to-nature folk, sharp newcomers with a new plan to market Mother Nature coexisting with families who have farmed this lovely place for generations, and mix it all together in a spirit of tolerance.

The frosting is complex, but here are some of its more notable features:

• Delicious scents wafting from a number of enticing eateries. I can recommend The Hanalei Dolphin, Postcards Café, Zelo’s, Niedes Salsa and Samba, and Bamboo Bamboo
• Appealing shops such as those at the Hanalei Center, six historic buildings converted to one-of-a-kind shops such as Tropical Tantrum (fabulous and affordable women’s beachwear), Paradise Fine Jewelry (black pearls to die for), and Whaler’s General Store. Across the street, in Ching Young Village, check out Hanalei Moon and Hot Rocket
• Activity-oriented businesses, such as Kayak Kaua’i, Yoga Hanalei, and Pedal and Paddle.
• Congenial hang-outs, such as the Ching Young Village Shopping Center, the Hanalei Community Center, Sushi Blues, and the Hanalei Pavilion.

Hungry? Have a virtual sample here, a bigger bite here , or a hefty slice here.

If the scenery is not enough to get you there, every evening, Doug and Sandy McMaster play the sun to bed. Doug and Sandy are incredible Slack Key performers and provide a show unlike anything I have found anywhere else in the world. See http://www.hawaiianslackkeyguitar.com/. Where else do world-class musicians provide a free concert every night for whoever shows up? Sandy even brings dog biscuits for all their four-legged fans. We bring a blanket and a bottle of wine to toast the end of another perfect day in paradise. (When you are in Hanalei, every day is perfect - remember, no rain, no rainbows.)