Château de Chenonceau

UK Flower Girl
UK Flower Girl
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5 out of 5
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Editor Pick

A Beautiful Chateau

  • September 16, 2009
  • Rated 5 of 5 by tartlette from Bath, United Kingdom
When Mr Tart and I went to the Loire Valley castle hunting I knew that I definitely wanted to visit Chenonceau. It’s one of the castles that really said Loire to me as it seems to be one that’s often used to illustrate the area.

SOME HISTORY:

Chateau de Chenonceau was originally a fortified castle built in the 1430s. In the early 1500s the castle was purchased by Thomas Bohier who demolished the fortified castle (apart from one tower) and began the building we see today. Unfortunately for Bohier his castle was seized by Francois I after Bohier’s son failed to pay a debt. Francois’s son Henry II then gave the castle to his mistress, Diane de Poitiers. Diane extended the castle to include an arched bridge across the river. When Henry II died (a splinter from a joust went into his eye and he died from the infection – yuk!) his wife, the formidable Catherine de Medici, took the palace from Diane (but did give her Chateau Chaumont as an exchange!). Catherine added a long gallery over Diane’s bridge. The castle was then passed to Henry III’s wife, Louise de Lorraine, Gabrielle d’Estrees and then to her son by Henry, Cesar of Vendome. The Castle is now in private hands but is open to the public.

LOCATION:

Chateau de Chenonceau is in the village of Chenonceau. It is 34km from Tours which was where we were staying. It is on the D40. There is plenty of parking at the castle and it is free.

OPENING HOURS AND PRICES:

The opening hours vary depending on the time of year that you visit so it’s a good idea to check the website. We went in August when the castle is open from 9am until 8pm. The latest it opens is 9.30 and the earliest it closes is 5pm. It is open every day of the year.

The castle costs €10 for adults and €8 for children and students. If you choose to get the audio guide the price goes up to €14 for adults and €12 for children and students, but we chose not to have these.

EXPERIENCE:

Once we’d parked we walked to the ticket booth. It’s about a 10 minute walk from car park to castle. The ticket office was also the shop. There was a queue for the tickets but you can also get them from an automatic machine so we got ours from there. The shop had a good mix of tourist fare and good history stuff (a lot of which I would have been tempted by if it hadn’t been in French!).

The ticket gets checked as you leave the shop and there you can pick up a brochure to guide your visit although they weren’t handing them out, I just happened to spot them so make sure you look out for them.

The first part of the castle you come across is the Marques Tower. This is the only part of the fortified castle left. This was the keep of the original castle and looks very small compared to the new one.

Make sure you check out the door of the main castle as it is really amazing. It dates from the reign of Francois I and shows the arms of the castle’s builders and the symbol of Francois himself, a salamander, which you can spot all over the Loire as a lot of the castles seem to date from his time.

Inside the castle there are eighteen rooms which you can look around. There were a few highlights for me. The first was Diane de Poitier’s bedroom. I’ve studied some of Henry II’s reign and about his wife, Catherine, so I was really intrigued by this. The irony of having Catherine’s portrait on the wall of this room is great! I love the royal connections, the portrait and the symbology of this room.

The green study and the library were Catherine de Medici’s working rooms when she became regent of France (her sons were young when her husband was killed). Just the thought that she was in these rooms gave me a little thrill (yes, I am a History nut!). What really surprised me was the small size of the library where Catherine had her desk. It was really tiny and you would think that a queen would demand a larger space.

My favourite space in the castle was definitely the gallery. This is the area built by Catherine on top of Diane’s bridge. The room is 60 metres long (about 180 feet) with a black and white floor, wooden ceiling and huge windows either side to make it really airy. You could see how this would have made the most amazing ballroom.

Louis XIV’s bedroom is also an amazing room. It is really bright red in colour and has a beautiful fireplace with Francois’s salamanders on it painted in gold. My favourite bedroom was definitely Louise of Lorraine’s bedroom. The room is painted black, including the ceiling. Louise retired to Chenonceau after the assassination of her husband Henry III in the French Wars of Religion. The room is painted with objects associated with mourning including silver tears and widows’ coronets. The room is very atmospheric and I can’t imagine actually sleeping in it.

There are lots of other rooms in the castle but I won’t go into all of them. They are sumptuously decorated and are really interesting to look round. You can also see the kitchens which give a bit of a view of the other side of castle life which was interesting as well.

Chenonceau is also famous for it’s gardens but I have to admit that I’m a bit of a philistine when it comes to gardens and I’m just not interested enough to look around them. They did look incredibly beautiful, however, and I’m sure if you were spending a while at the castle you would make the effort to look round them properly. There is a maze in the gardens as well which I would have liked to have done if we’d have had more time (we were averaging three castles a day!).

There is a café in the old stables of the castle. We stopped here for a drink as the water we’d brought hadn’t lasted and it was unbelievably hot. The prices were high and I wouldn’t recommend getting anything here unless you have to, although as the castle is a way outside the village there aren’t really any alternatives. There is also a more exclusive restaurant called L’Orangerie which is open from March to November. We didn’t venture here but I’m sure the view would make the extra cost worth while for a special event.

I would also recommend taking a little rowing boat out so that you can row under the bridge of the castle. We hired a boat which cost €4 for half an hour which was a bargain because we really enjoyed it. We rowed under the bridge and a little way down the river and it also gave us some great pictures. They provide life jackets as well. If you’re not keen on boats it is definitely worth walking a little way down the river in order to get the best views of the castle.

CONCLUSION:

I would highly recommend a visit to Chenonceau to anyone visiting the Loire area. It’s not that cheap but it really is worth the price as the castle is stunning. The setting makes it perfect. The rooms are beautiful and the gallery is just amazing. Even if you’re not a History nut (like me) then you can’t help but be a little impressed by the location of the castle and the way it’s built over the river.
Editor Pick

Exploring the "House of Diane"--1985

Exploring the "House of Diane"--1985

One of these days I have vowed for the past 24 years since my visit to France, I will return to the Loire Valley and visit Chateau Chenonceau again. The 11th Century Loire Valley Chateau was my favorite chateau during my 1985, and I don't know if it was because the architecture of the place was so simple and beautiful and became a part of many drawings I have done in the past years, or because during its long history it was once occupied by a woman named Diane. I have always felt a kindred spirit with famous women named Diane and friends by the same name.

As mentioned in the previous paragraph, Chateau Chenonceau has been in existence since the 11th Century when it was built on the Cher River in the Loire Valley. The chateau was named for the village of Chenonceaux by its first owners and for three centuries after its original construction, Chateau Chenonceau went through several owners before the chateau was torched in 1411 when its owner at the time, Jean Marques, was convicted of sedition and the burning was one of the punishments inflicted.

After the royal Chamberlain of Francois I took over Chenonceau in 1513, they destroyed the original chateau and built the current chateau between 1515-1521. The chamberlain and his wife hosted Francois I and several royals during their time in Chenonceau, and when the chamberlain failed to pay several debts to the crown, it was siezed by the royal family.

When Henri II, Francois I's son, became king in 1547, he gave Chenonceau to his mistress Diane de Poitiers, who fell in love with the chateau and added many features to the chateau including the arched bridge that crosses the Cher River from the chateau and planted several beautiful gardens and terraces that you can see today.

Henri II died in 1559, and his widow, Catherine de Medici, who was very jealous of her late husbands relationship with Diane, had Diane thrown out of Chenoneau and took over the chateau for herself. Talk about "Hell have no fury like a woman scorned!" Catherine had many more gardens put around Chenonceau along with a gallery and other perks. Throughout the next 240 years, Chenonceau would become home to several of Henri II's descendants before leaving the crown's ownership and being owned by several members of the French aristocracy. During the French Revolution, Louise Dupin, wife of the owner of the time, Claude, saved Chateau Chenonceau from destruction by the revolutionaries because of the bridge being an important road for commerce and other travel in the Loire Valley.

After the French Revolution, Chenonceau went under more ownerships outside of the aristocracy before becoming the home of the Menier family in 1913, who are some of France's best chocolatiers, and they still own Chateau Chenonceau today. Chenonceau was a hospital during World War I, and during World War II, escaped Allied prisoners of war and other victims of the Nazis crossed the Cher River from Chenonceau into the unoccupied Vichy Zone.

The French Club and I toured Chenoneau's interior and exterior on our own and I enjoyed seeing the beautiful canopied beds of the Dauphin and Diane de Poitiers. "Gee, I wouldn't mind a canopy bed at home!" Twenty-years later I still don't have a canopy bed, but it's OK to dream about one, isn't it? My favorite part of Chenoneau is the tower that is built into the Cher River. It's been my favorite part of the chateau to draw, and my father has a watercolor in his house in Idaho that I did for my grandmother about a year after I returned from France. Looking at the picture of the tower gives me many fond memories of my 1985 trip to France and the House that Diane built.

From journal Les Chateaux de la Valoire

A Fairytale Setting

  • July 1, 2009
  • Rated 5 of 5 by Kez from Broadbeach Waters, Australia
A Fairytale Setting

After entering via an avenue of huge and ancient trees the first glimpse literally takes your breath away.

We visited late in the day just as the sun was setting and the soft pink hue of dusk was highlighting and warming the stone walls with a subtle glow that set off the perfect mirror image of the Chateau reflected in the River Cher.

Reminiscent of a fairytale the whimsical turrets and graceful arches of the entry bridge and so very peaceful made this Chateau a definite highlight. It was made even more special as we were the only visitors there at the time.

The Chateau also boasts an interesting history. Building of the current Chateau commenced in the early 1500’s when the original small fortress was demolished due to the fact that it did not fit the fashion at the time. The only part that was kept was the tower in the entry courtyard. Having a chequered history the Chateau changed hands many times, at one time the home of Diane de Poitiers, mistress of Henry the second. In the late 1500’s one wing was used by the Ursuline nuns, then in 1914 it was then converted to a field hospital where up to 2000 wounded were tended in WW1. It was also used as a base for the Resistance as they used to smuggle out the escapees over the back draw bridge into the forest behind.

On the left as you enter lies the beautifully designed gardens made up of pink and white blooms that also serve to enhance the femininity and fairytale essence of the Chateau.

Apart from the amazing setting it is well worth visiting was the inside of the Chateau for the impressive gallery with it’s diagonally laid black and white tiles and the huge original kitchen and scullery areas.

Also a standout was the fact it was so beautifully maintained complete with the most enormous arrangements of flowers in almost every room. Huge bunches of bright yellow chrysanthemums or white lilies made the Chateau feel very welcoming.

This Chateau is truly special.

From journal The Chateau’s of the lovely Loire Valley

Editor Pick

Château de Chenonceau

  • June 27, 2004
  • Rated 4 of 5 by UK Flower Girl from Market Weighton, England
Château de Chenonceau

Admission: €8 for castle and gardens

Chenonceau is one of the loveliest châteaux in the Loire Valley. Its interesting design, spanning the river Cher, and the magnificent gardens make it a must-see in the Loire Valley.

Six woman left their mark on this château—Katherine Briçonnet, Diane de Poitiers, Catherine de Medici, Louise de Lorraine, Madame Dupin and Madame Pelouze. Each one did their part to make the château what it is today. Most remarkable was the addition of the arched bridge over the river and formal gardens by Diane de Poitiers, and the turreted pavilion built by Katherine Briçonnet, wife of the first owner, Thomas Bohier.

We started our visit with the Catherine de Medici garden and continued with a walk along the river promenade and then ventured back to the entrance of the château to start our tour. The Catherine de Medici garden, the smaller of the two, uses about 130,000 bedded plants each year. It has a central pool and fountain and was blooming with pink tulips when we visited.

I will not expand on the history of the château as it is extensive and there are plenty of books and websites out there that will tell you everything you need to know.

We started in the Guards’ Room where you will find Flemish tapestries and the famous 16th-century oak door with the words, "S’il vient à point, me sowiendra" meaning, "If I manage to build, I will be remembered"—words spoken by Thomas Bohier and his wife Katherine Briçonnet.

From here we continued on to the tiny chapel with stained glass windows dating from 1954 since the originals were bombed out during the war. You will visit Diane de Poitiers’ bedroom, a study and the library before coming to the long gallery.

Catherine de Medici built this gallery on the bridge built by Diane de Poitiers. The gallery is a ballroom with dimensions of 60 metres by 6 metres and lit by arched windows down its length. An interesting fact about the gallery is that during WWII the gallery’s southern door, leading to the left bank of the Cher River, provided access to the free zone while the entrance was in the occupied zone.

Francois I’s bedroom contains a few masterpieces. The Renaissance chimney is supposed to be one of the most beautiful. The 16th-century Italian cabinet with mother-of-pearl and ivory and the Van Loo painting beside it are worth extra time.

The next notable room is the Five Queens’ Bedroom named for Catherine De Medici’s two daughters and three daughters-in-law. The ceiling displays the Five Queens’ coats-of-arm.

On the way out, take some time to visit the larger garden, Diane de Poitiers’ garden. It is overlooked by the steward’s house, La Chancellerie, built in the 16th century. The house was covered in purple wisteria when we were there—beautiful! We watched tiny lizards basking in the sunshine and scurrying along the walls as we walked along the sides.

From journal Gems of the Loire Valley

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