Description

Vang Vieng is the perfect countryside resort: it is near the capital, it offers spectacular views, it is along the way to other main attractions and it is tourists’ friendly.

The Way

The resort is about 160km north of Vientiane and can be reached with any means of transport heading for Luang Prabang – a town recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage place. Buses leave from Vientiane’s bus terminal next to the Morning Market and from the northern terminal as well. Moreover, all the travel agencies in Vientiane offer private cars for the four hours trip.

The Rationale of Stopping Here

Vang Vieng practically sits where the road leading to the northern parts of Laos from Vientiane – called Highway 13 - splits. Luang Prabang – the old capital of the northern Laotian kingdom – is to the north and Phonsavan – the main town along the Ho Chi Minh Trail – is to the northeast. Both trips are long, thus Vang Vieng offers the perfect stop for a break – regardless the direction to be followed.

The Resort

Vang Vieng is a small village located amidst a limestone karst valley and next to the Nam Xong River. The shallow river is spanned by rustic bridges – some of them are slightly below the water surface – and is surrounded by colorful caves.

The Sunsets

The town being on the eastern riverside assures clear views of the sunset. The broken karst landscape creates unforgettable sunsets amidst incredibly green hills of irregular shape. The air humidity and the clouds guarantee the sun light would be scattered into a myriad of reddish hues on a daily base.

The Town

Roughly following the riverside, the curved main street is short and hosts most of the guesthouses and restaurants in town. The Morning Market is nearby the single curve along it, nearby the street’s center.

The Runway

Nearby Highway 13 and the bus terminal is a now abandoned – but clearly shaped and paved – runway. It was used during the Vietnam War and provides some historical angle to the visit.

The Hotels

Vang Vieng offers only rustic accommodations. Most guesthouses are rather basic and are arranged in a kind of cartel, thus recommending a specific one would be useless. Basic, spacious rooms with a fan, an attached bathroom and a rustic water heater can be rented for around $2.5 per day. South of town is a bungalow place which often changes ownership and is sporadically closed – it is worth checking it before signing into another place since it offers huts attractive and is far from the other establishments and tourists.

The Restaurants

Many establishments offer slightly overpriced hybrids between Laotian and Western meals. However, if arriving from Vientiane, the Xayoh restaurant branch would immediately caught the attention. This one is less sophisticated than the one in the capital and specializes in grilled meats and pizzas. The other place worth mentioning is the Shore Sunset - I have no other name for this improvised restaurant - which is located just south of the market, after the road elbow. From the main street there is a long staircase leading to the river and the restaurant. Some grass was planted by the shore, a few benches were placed there and a very basic kitchen was constructed in two simple huts. At this spot, the river is shallow and shaky wood bridges at water level can be seen just to the south; they do not follow the shortest trajectory, but make zigzags, connecting in such a fashion some tiny islands and creating a colorful point where the local denizens can be watched. One of the segments is slightly sunken into the water and people crossing it look as if they were walking on water. The shore across the river is shaded by impressive vertical cliffs covered with greenery. It is the best place for watching the wonderful local sunsets.

The Activities

The main activity offered to visitors is floating along the river. Huge tractor inner tubes can be rented (less than a dollar per day) and used for the task from Pakpok (4km north of Vang Viang) through rapids and tiny islands, back to Vang Vieng. The adventurous can choose a longer trip from Ban Pha Thao which is off Route 13, this route longs ten kilometers. Bicycles can be rented for less than a dollar a day and complete the basic transport methods at the service of visitors. Motorcycles are available for seven dollars a day, but the wet nature of the local attractions renders them almost useless. Cave tours can be combined with tube trips; the combined option requests a local guide and is organized by all the local travel agencies.