Description: The castle comes to life.
Tournoel Castle stands guard on the outskirts of Volvic, the town known for the purity of its bottled water and the polished strength of its black, volcanic stone. The first time I saw Tournoel ten years ago, it was a brooding ruin. The 13th century castle was roused from slumber during the new millennium when a military man purchased and began restoring it. Crumbling outer walls have been reinforced and inner walls have been scrubbed to reveal remarkably detailed frescoes. Visitors can now see why it was known as the castle that could not be taken. Sitting atop a promontory above a long, winding road, the castle offers a commanding view of the plains and valleys below. From its high-set entrance and studded doors to its thick walls, the castle is impressive in its design. The interior space hints at more peaceful pursuits. The chatelaine’s triangular gardens and the huge stone hearth in the center of the castle are under renovation, but it is easy to imagine how beautiful they will be when finished. The kitchen is a real treat: the recessed wall oven and medieval utensils are accessible to touch. The current keeper of the castle has ambitious plans to not only finish restoring all the frescoes but also to replant the gardens and put up stained glass windows. All proceeds from the 6 euros ($8) entrance fee go toward renovation.
There is an information card at the entrance to each room of the castle if you like to go at your own pace, but the guided tours are worth the fee. The guides are enthusiastic and well versed in the history of the region. During the summer months, costumed actors display cooking and combat techniques and candlelight tours, starting at 8:45pm draw visitors into the past.
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