- Koentje3000
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- 5 out of 5
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Editor Pick
Gutmanis Cave
- September 12, 2007
- Rated 4 of 5 by
Koentje3000 from Hamme, Belgium
Gutmanis Cave (Gutmana Ala in Latvian) is the largest and deepest cave in Gauja National Park, and in fact in the whole Baltic countries, despite it only being 20m long and 10m by 10m wide. It is now located 200m away from the Gauja river, but after the last ice age the river was much more powerful and cut away its sandstone banks to form this cave. After the retreat of the river, the cave was separated from the river and a few small ponds, still visible today were formed between them. A nice feature of the cave is that it contains a small spring.
There are many local legends surrounding the cave. One involves around a sorcerer, who gave his name Gutmanis to the cave. He is supposed to cure the locals with water from the cave spring. The origin of the spring is explained in another story, involving a local Livonian leader named Rindaugas. He would have accused his wife of being unfaithful, after which he had her buried alive inside the cave. Her tears would have been the source of the spring. But the most famous story, well-known all over Latvia, tells about a girl named Maija. After a terrible battle on the foot of Turaida Castle, some locals found a baby in the arms of her dead mother. They transported the baby they named Maija to the castle where one of them raised it like his own. The girl became one of extreme beauty and her nickname was the "Rose of Turaida". She had lots of admirers but she only loved one of them, the castle's gardener Viktor. A Polish officer however tricked Maija into Gutmanis cave, where he threatened to violate her. She told him however that he would get her magical scarf if he would not do what he intended. The scarf was according to the young girl impenetrable by any weapon and she would demonstrate it. She put the scarf on her neck and urged the Pole to try it. Upon drawing his weapon, he stabbed the girl's neck and killed her. After seeing what he had caused, he ran away. Depending on the version of the story, he killed himself or he was hanged because of his crime.
Due to the numerous stories, the cave became a much visited place during the course of history. This has left its marks here, as the cave walls and the nearby sandstone rocks contain the most interesting feature of the area: several graffiti-like carvings, dating from as far back as the 16th century and depicting flowers, names, small objects, and even coats of arms of local guilds. Because of this feature and due to its location, about 50m from the main Sigulda-Turaida road, both only 1.5 km away, makes this place one of the most visited inside the Gauja National Park.
From journal Sigulda: About Castles, Caves and Conifers
Editor Pick
Turaida
- September 11, 2007
- Rated 5 of 5 by
Koentje3000 from Hamme, Belgium
Only 3km from Sigulda lies one of the most impressive architectural sights in the Gauja National Park, namely Turaida Castle. A wooden castle was constructed around 1000 years ago by local Finnic-speaking Livonian tribes. Under the leadership of Kaupo around 1200AD things changed dramatically for the Livonians. German merchants came to the area, followed by Christian crusading knights forcibly trying to convert the pagan locals. Kaupo was baptized and befriended Bishop Albert of Riga. He became an ardent supporter of Christianity, much to the dismay of other Livonians. This lead to a rebellion against his reign, but Kaupo sided with Albert and his knights, leading to a sounding victory for the Bishop but also the destruction of the wooden fortress. The Germans soon constructed a superior brick fortress, of which the restored remains are visible today. The castle was known as Treiden, a Germanised version of the Livonian name Turaida (God's Garden). The castle was expanded several times over the next century, but was left in scatters after ravaging fires in the 18th century. After WWII the area was getting more and more popular with Soviet party officials and ordinary USSR inhabitants, which lead to the inception of restoration works in the castle.
Nowadays the castle and its surroundings are included in the Turaida Museum Reserve. A fee of around 3€ (reductions for students and during low season) will allow entrance to the reserve. One of the highlights of your visit will certainly be the 13th century castle itself. It is nicely located on a hill next to the Gauja river. Viewed from nearby it appears towering above the foliage. The main building and the 27m high south tower, both open to the public, are nicely restored. If you climb the tower, a beautiful panorama on the river and its surroundings await you. The lower but wider north tower is left in an attractive crumbling state.
A few other interesting sights can be visited in the castle grounds. A short distance away, located on Dainu hill, are a few nice viewpoints on the region and the hill is dotted with statues made by local sculptor Indulis Ranka and representing figures from ancient folk songs. Just north of the castle is Turaida village. The old houses, many of them date from more than 200 years ago, show how ancient buildings like granaries, smithies and fisheries were used. The odd Turaida church from 1750 is one of the oldest wooden churches in Latvia. Turaida is only a few km away from the regional hub Sigulda. If you want to walk to the castle, first reach Krimulda across the Gauja bridge or via the Sigulda cable car. From here a few walking trails (2-3km) will lead to Turaida village, where you pay the entrance fee. The trails however are not very well marked but you should keep near the river as this will lead towards Turaida. Every hour or so a local bus will go from Sigulda to Turaida via Krimulda.
From journal Sigulda: About Castles, Caves and Conifers
Editor Pick
Sigulda Part II
- September 6, 2007
- Rated 5 of 5 by
Koentje3000 from Hamme, Belgium
(continued from part I)
From the Sigulda Tourist Information Poruka road runs westwards for 100m towards the only cable car in Latvia. A short ride across the Gauja river valley, offering excellent views on the National Park and the town, will cost around 2€. In summer, the cable car is even used a few times a week for bungee jumping! On the west bank are the interesting ruins of the 16th century Krimulda castle. From here roads and trails lead into the National Park and towards the beautiful brick Turaida Castle. You can also walk back to Sigulda town centre by the bridge that crosses the Gauja river.
Just south from the east bank cable car station is a summer-only Ferris wheel, offering a bird's eye view on the landscape. Nearby is a bicycle rental shop, an excellent option for exploring the Gauja National Park. A marked bicycle route starts near the Gauja bridge and will bring you to some interesting places in and around Sigulda, including Gutmana Cave and Krimulda castle. The Sigulda Campgound, excellently located on the river banks, offers kayaks for rent (around 40€ per boat per day) to explore the region in a different way. It is also possible to take a dip here in the always cold Gauja river or in the next-door swimming pool. In winter Sigulda offers some downhill skiing, but don't expect a second Aspen or Switzerland. Nevertheless, a bobsleigh track is available for both winter and summer fun only 500m south of the camping. For another great experience, a few km south of Sigulda, on the Riga highway lies the Baltic states only Vertical Wind Tunnel, the Aerodium Latvia.
A big tourist magnet like Sigulda does certainly have its share of accommodation. However, during summer (June-September) and winter (December-January) seasons everything is heavily booked so it's advisable to arrange your rooms at least a few days in advance. For a full listing you may look at Sigulda's official website. The Hotel Sigulda and next-door Melnais Kakis both offer excellent double rooms, including breakfast, for around 65 and 50€ and are located close to the tourist information. Livonija Guesthouse, south of the train station, offers good double rooms for below 30€. Food is widely available in Sigulda and always cheap: the upmarket hotels still offer main courses below 10€, while the many "Kafejnica's" have hearty pub-like meals for much cheaper. Every sight mentioned above will always have at least some snacks available to appease your hunger.
From journal Sigulda: About Castles, Caves and Conifers
Editor Pick
Sigulda Part I
- September 6, 2007
- Rated 5 of 5 by
Koentje3000 from Hamme, Belgium
As the Gauja National Park gateway town closest to Riga, only 50km southwest, Sigulda attracts its fair share of tourists, and deservedly so because it is one of the nicest small towns in Latvia. It is located on the banks of the Gauja river that winds through the forested hills. The town's history is similar to other places in the Vidzeme region (northern Latvia), including Riga and Cesis. The area was settled around 1000AD by the Finnic Liv people. They constructed many wooden forts, including at least seven in the Sigulda region, in order to defend themselves from the crusading German Teutonic Knights. The Germans constructed a technically superior brick fortress called Siegewald (Victory Forest) in present day Sigulda and in 1200 they controlled the whole area. Under German control the town was a flourishing trade centre, only ending with the Livonian war of the 16th century. The town came under Polish-Lithuanian control, but this war and several other conflicts between the Commonwealth of Poland and Lithuania, Russia and Sweden left the town in rumbles, only to be restored during the Russian rule of the 19th century. WWI and WWII damaged the town heavily again, but during Soviet rule over Latvia after WWII the town flourished once again due to the growth in tourism from Soviet officials. Since Latvian independence the apparatchiks have been replaced first by local tourists, but nowadays many foreign tourists followed them in order to see the historical town and the nearby Gauja National Park.
Despite the fact that most people immediately wind through the town en route for the National Park, Sigulda's long history justify a visit of at least a few hours to the town. The main street, Gaujas Iela, houses the helpful Tourist Information, offering leaflets, maps, accommodation info, etc. about the town and the park. The white 15th century Lutheran church next to a small lake is only 50m away. A little north is the Pils Parks (Castle Park), containing the 19th century Sigulda New Castle. The castle houses public offices and a restaurant, and offers good views of the surrounding national park. Behind it are the impressive ruins of the 12th century Siegewald castle. The Gaujas Iela goes into the Gauja river valley and offer access to other great sights of the area. Northeast of the castle a few trails lead past some viewpoints like Paradise Hill towards the pristine Vejupite river valley, running through rocky scenery. Next to the river is the cracked surface of Peter's Cave.
(continued in part II)
From journal Sigulda: About Castles, Caves and Conifers