Twenty miles east of Sigiriya (though you must backtrack to A6 NE and then wind from Habarana eastwards on A11) lay Sri Lanka’s medieval capital. An UNESCO site since 1982, its glory days were during the reign of three Sinhalese kings (succeeding the upstart Southern Indian Cholas who'd invaded in early C11 and defeated the Sinhalese kings of Anuradhapura). The short-lived but powerful dynasty of Vijaybahu I, Parakramabhu I, and Nissankamalla established Polonnaruwa in 1056, built next to a vast artificial Topa Wewa lake, enclosed within three concentric walls with palaces, gardens, stupas, monasteries, bathing pools. Polonnaruwa was finally abandoned in 1288 but the ruins remain testament to the artistry and imagination of the age.
Most spectacular and best-preserved is the Quadrangle, comprising a walled enclosure 150mx150m. The C12 Vatadage ("Hall of the relic") is a circular building with a dagoba on rising concentric terraces and sculptured railings, built to house the Tooth Relic (see Kandy entry, where the Tooth is now kept). Most memorable are the pairs of Buddha relief sculptures guarding the Vatadage entrances, each flanking an almighty moonstone (polished, semi-circular granite carved in concentric semi-circular rings portraying animals, flowers and birds so that you walk across the four stages of life : elephant – birth, horse – old age; lion – illness; bull – death/decay, around a lotus flower - symbol of nirvana).
Another unmissable sight is north of the city walls: Gal Vihara ("Cave of the spirits of knowledge") is of spiritual significance to Buddhists and artistic admiration for the rest of us. Forming part of Parakramabhu’s monastery, a giant Buddha, carved from 8m-high grey rock, sits on a pedestal; to his right, a 14m recumbent Buddha (his trance state signified by a slightly-bent higher leg) and standing, crossed-armed Buddha. The grain of the granite rock and quality of the carving are exquisite – you could sit and stare at their peaceful faces for hours.
Other areas to explore are the numerous stupas, the Council Chamber in the Royal Citadel with its fine octagonal pillars and friezes of carved elephants, lions and dwarves on the whole of the exterior plus the Kumara Pokuna ("Prince’s bath") where water spouts through a crocodile’s jaws. The Rest Houses Complex on the lakeside are also in a beautiful setting.
Open 6am-8pm though, you can park and go in anytime - present tickets as you wander round, though they're unnecessary for the further-flung areas. It takes a minimum of three hrs to explore – get there first thing for the whole day (incl. the Archaeological Museum whence some of the better sculpture has have been taken; its small-scale reconstructions give an impression of the size and scale of the original city, and how its various buildings inter-relate). Take your driver in with you and arrange to go back every so often to cool/sit down, have a drink and drive onto your next chosen spot. It's hot work walking from site to site and they're very spread out. Entrance US$20pp.