Klaipeda

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Klaipeda (General)

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Koentje3000
Koentje3000
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Editor Pick

Witches' Hill

  • July 30, 2007
  • Rated 4 of 5 by Koentje3000 from Hamme, Belgium
Witches' Hill

The hills of Jonas and Ieva (John and Eve) are two dunes on the Curonian Spit near the village of Juodkrante. They contain some of the oldest patches of forests on the peninsula. Local legends say that on midsummer night (aka St. John's Eve!) evil spirits like witches and devils gather in these hills, so even during the heavy logging of the 15th century the woods were left untouched. To drive off these creatures wooden barrels were set afire and rolled down the hills into the Curonian Lagoon. Soon the haunted hills were nicknamed the Hill of Witches, a name that still sticks today.

In 1979 the Lithuanian artist Sarapovas wanted to create a sculpture park on the hill together with the architect brothers Nasvytis. Although the sculptures would be entrenched in Lithuanian folk culture and could become a potential source of Lithuanian nationalism, the project was approved anyway by the Soviets. Sarapovas gathered around 50 fellow artists, all of them Lithuanian, to construct statues themed around regional folk legends. Wood, mainly oak, was chosen for the sculptures as this material is reminiscent to the long woodcarving tradition here. When Sarapovas died 2 years later, most of the sculptures were finished. Apart from a few replacements and newer additions, they are still available today and are visited by almost every visitor in the Curonian Spit. The brothers Nasvytis came to be known as two of the greatest architects in the country and are responsible for many modern buildings, mainly in Vilnius. Due to their involvement in the Lithuanian independence movement, Algimantas even functioned briefly as construction minister, while his brother Vytautas became a renowned university professor.

The hills can be reached from either side of the peninsula, with lots of walking trails crossing over to the other side. The main entrance is about 300m west of Juodkrante's church, near a few souvenir shops and a restaurant. The shops sell booklets about the hill. Since a few years there is also a children's playground with wooden seesaws and slides that look like the hill's sculptures. Another entrance is 300m south from here and is indicated by a giant wooden sign ridden by a witch. The trail that starts here is steeper. A few smaller trails start from different locations. The sculptures are always next to the trail. They generally depict different characters of Lithuanian folklore, although other images exist, like the wonderful Witches' Castle, a fisherman and his ship or even the devil himself. Sculptures originating from the ancient tales represent different witches and trolls, Perkunas, the god of thunder, Egle, the queen of serpents and Neringa, the gentle giantess who gave the area her name. Some of them have arms to swing, while others can be climbed or are shaped as benches or chairs. Despite the Christianity of the locals, they still put coins in the evil spirits' hands or mouth to ward them off. This exquisite sight is free to visit and is definitely fun with children.

From journal Lithuania's Attractive Sand Coast

Editor Pick

Klaipeda Old Town

  • July 11, 2007
  • Rated 4 of 5 by Koentje3000 from Hamme, Belgium
Klaipeda Old Town

The town was founded as Memelburg as a garrison fort in the 13th century by the crusading German Teutonic Knights. Prussia took control of the town and for the next centuries it formed the border with the powerful Grand Duchy of Lithuania. For the next centuries, the Prussian rule proved to be a blessing for the town as it kept on growing and prospering due to the excellent location of its port facilities. After WWI the freshly independent Lithuania acquired the region, which already had a large Lithuanian population. Memel was officially renamed into its Lithuanian name Klaipeda. After the German occupation during WWII the Soviet Union invaded the country and made it the Lithuanian Soviet Republic. With the collapse of the USSR, Lithuania finally gained back its independence in 1991 and is now a member of both EU and NATO.

A thing you may notice immediately when you visit Klaipeda is the lack of churches. The ones not destroyed during WWII were razed by the communists during the aftermath of the war. The few churches now are newer additions and not worth visiting. The town, however, is still full of German-style 17th and 18th century Fachwerk-houses (half-timbered) providing the face of the city. Examples of this architecture can be found anywhere in the old town, like in the unofficial centre of Klaipeda, Theatre Square. Here you will also find the 200 year old bright white building of the Klaipeda Drama Theatre. The building's balcony became infamous as the place from where Hitler announced the German annexation of the town in 1939. In front of it is a small statue in commemoration of one of the most famous Klaipedans, the Prussian German poet Simon Dach. In the small but pleasant streets behind the square are small statuettes of a mouse and a cat. See if you can spot them.

Other landmarks in the city include the "Meridianas" schooner ship on the Dane river and the 13th century ruined Memel Castle near the river's mouth. The Museum of Lithuania Minor (Didzioji Vandens Street) is a rather interesting museum of the history of the Klaipeda region. Just northeast of the city, about 1.5 km away from the centre, lies the interesting sculpture park with over 100 statues of Lithuanian artists.

There are many places to stay in Klaipeda. On the top end Europa Royal Hotel, located just next to Theatre Square, offers standard double rooms for around 100€. Just north of the Dane river, 1km away, is the excellent Vecekrug Hotel, offering better rooms for similar prices. Good middle class hotels (around 50€ per double room) are Hotel Aribe or the Pajuris Hotel, offering lots of spa facilities for an extra fee and located 6km north of the city but reachable by public bus. Near Vecekrug is the excellent Litinterp Guesthouse offering B&B-style accommodation and self-catering apartments for around 20€ per person.

From journal Lithuania's Attractive Sand Coast

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