Curonian Spit

Koentje3000
Koentje3000
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Curonian Spit

  • July 30, 2007
  • Rated 4 of 5 by Koentje3000 from Hamme, Belgium
Curonian Spit

The Curonian Spit is a long and thin sand peninsula in the Baltic Sea. It has been inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list because of its history of interaction between humans and landscape. This extraordinary feature was formed 5000 years ago when seasand was deposed along the curved Baltic coast of that time, blocking almost the entire coast. Subsequently the Curonian Lagoon, fed by the Nemunas River, turned into a freshwater body. More recent history starts with the foundation around 800 A.D. of Kaup, located in the south of the spit. The city soon flourished as a trading centre of amber, abundant on these coasts, but was sacked by the Danes in the 11th century. Like nearby Klaipeda, the spit was from then on part of Prussia. The peninsula contained only a few fishing villages like Cranz (Zelenogradsk) and Nida. After the WWI defeat of Prussia, the northern part was incorporated in independent Lithuania while the south was a part of the German province of East-Prussia. A USSR intermezzo left the border unchanged and now the spit is shared between Lithuania and the Russia's Kaliningrad province.

Most people, including me, only visit the Lithuanian part as most westerners may visit this country visa-free. However, the spit connects to the mainland only in Kaliningrad, so a boat ride is necessary if you only visit Lithuania. Smiltynes Perkela offers regular ferry services from Klaipeda for around €1 per person. The ferry arrives in the small village of Smiltyne, in the north of the sandspit. The village contains the Sea Museum Aquarium, located in a 19th century fort. From here regular minibuses head south to the other villages. A few kilometres south of Simltyne is the entrance gate to the Curonian Spit National Park. Private car drivers are required to pay €3 "environment tax". From here to the Russian border the municipality of Neringa occupies the rest of the Lithuanian part of the peninsula. It was named after a local legend of the giantess Neringa who was courted by a sea dragon. He began terrorizing the locals when she refused to marry him. She created a sandy defence strip to block the dragon and so the peninsula was born.

About three quarters of the N.P. is covered with dense forests, mainly with pines and spruces. The woods are mostly originating from a massive 16th century reforestation project, after that the cutting of trees proved disastrous for the sands. The Baltic west coast of the peninsula forms an excellent sand beach, requiring a short forest walk from Neringa's main road. A few villages dot the east coast, facing the quiet Curonian Lagoon. Juodkrante (in the middle of the Lithuanian part) and Nida (near the Russian border) are very popular with tourists. Both offer hotels, restaurants, and outdoor activities (sailing, cycling, angling). A partly forested dune system runs parallel to the east coast. The most beautiful and highest dunes are located just south of Juodkrante.

From journal Lithuania's Attractive Sand Coast

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Juodkrante

  • July 26, 2007
  • Rated 5 of 5 by Koentje3000 from Hamme, Belgium
Juodkrante

Juodkrante is a village on the Curonian Spit, about halfway between Nida and Smiltyne, both at namely around 25km. Although there are only 700 permanent residents, the village is the third largest settlement on the peninsula after Nida and Rybachy (Russia). The town's name translates as "black shore", a reference to the original German name Schwarzort ("black village"). It probably stems from the dark pine forests surrounding the town. Schwarzort was founded in the 14th or 15th century on the Baltic Sea coast. Two centuries later it was moved to its present location on the Curonian Lagoon after the decimation of its population by an outbreak of the Black Death and large dune-shifting sandstorms. One hundred years later it had grown to a flourishing fishing village. The discovery of amber in 1850 turned the village in a prosperous trading post. Soon after hordes of tourists followed course and constructed spacious wooden villas, several of which can still be found today. The town, Prussian-German at that time, Lithuanian since 1923, became an important resort town until the Nazi and later Soviet occupation of Lithuania. Twenty years later tourism was again on the rise, although at first only for high party officials and Soviet businessmen. Since Lithuanian independence national and international visitors are pouring again over these shores.

The town of Nida is more popular, meaning that Juodkrante has retained its calm and charm. Prices, however, are similarly high for Lithuanian standards, meaning a two-person apartment will cost around €30 during low season although prices may vary greatly when the season advances. Double prices are not uncommon in July and August. Good addresses are the cosy B&B Prie Azuolo or the modern Egliu Slenis Hotel. Private apartments are also available and can be booked through Litinterp guesthouse in Klaipeda.

The main road from Smiltyne to Nida runs right through the village, hugging the Curonian Lagoon. The road is lined with 19th-century wooden houses. Many of them now contain a shop or café and in one chalet is the interesting and free Weathervane Gallery, displaying examples of this local folk art. The road runs almost into the simple red brick church. The small harbour just east has a good café, a marina and a copy of an old amber trading ship. The two best sights, however, are located a little out of the city. Witches' Hill is a forested dune just west of the town with several walking trails. Local folk artist made several wooden sculptures depicting Lithuanian folklore characters along the trails. The Nagliai Nature Reserve is a protected area starting 1km south of the town. The landscape contains some of the highest coastal sand dunes in Europe, housing rare plants and birdlife. Most parts of the park are off limits but a fenced-off walking track was opened recently in the south of the park. It can be reached by following the main road south to Nida for about 10km till you reach the parking place.

From journal Lithuania's Attractive Sand Coast

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