Editor Pick
Overview of Leith
- April 26, 2007
- Rated 4 of 5 by
Drever from Ayr
For a thousand years, Leith has been an active port. Over the past decade, this former rough-edged seaport has turned into a fitting foil for Edinburgh, the ‘Athens of the North’. The steady retreat of Leith's harbour areas to the outer docks led to development of its many waterfront areas into smart, expensive flats, restaurants and bars, and shops and offices.
Victoria Quay, a vast office building completed in 1995 on land previously between two docks, now houses much of Scotland's devolved government. On Victoria Quay’s heels, small high-quality developments popped up across Leith, giving a pleasing mix of new and old.
Whole swathes of converted warehouses now form residential properties or offices. Sympathetic and well-planned new buildings replace derelict ones. An important arrival was the huge Ocean Terminal shopping centre, again on a dockside location.
Moored alongside the stylish Ocean Terminal shopping and leisure complex is the former royal ship, HMS Britannia. The yacht, preserved in the way used for state visits and diplomatic services, attracts many visitors. We viewed the admiral's quarters, the officers' mess, and the Royal apartments, including cabins used by the Queen and Prince Philip. The visitor centre and free audio guide are available.
Much of Leith’s magnificent architecture from earlier waves of investment remains on view. Much of the fine buildings owned by rich shipowners and merchants are still here. The port’s dominance meant there has always been wealth here, though unevenly shared.
Restored historic buildings keep the character of the area. They include Andrew Lamb's House, built in 1587. This 16th century building was where Mary Queen of Scots arrived in Leith in 1561. The South Leith Parish Church contains the core of an earlier church built in 1487. Trinity House is a classical building in the Kirkgate and home to Leith's maritime museum. Viewing its collection of maritime artifacts and memorabilia is by appointment only.
Leith Links is the historical home to The Honourable Company of Golfers. Their game consisted of a five-hole course, each hole being over 400 yards long. In 1744, they drew up the first official rules for a tournament on Leith Links. These rules, 13 in all, form the basis for the modern game of golf.
The Shore is where you'll find a large concentration of stylish bars and restaurants, which have turned Leith into a popular haunt, especially at weekends. It blends the rough of the nearby ports with the elegance of the Neoclassical buildings lining the road along the east side of the Water of Leith. Several classy hotels and luxurious eateries offer delicious seafood, keeping with the maritime theme.
Just get on a 22 bus at Princes Street and you are there. Alternatively, take the two-mile walk down Leith Walk with its hive of small shops. Now part of the Royal Burgh of Edinburgh, Leith is well worth a visit.
From journal Leith and district – sail, steam & flight