Totem Heritage Center

Drever
Drever
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4 out of 5
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Editor Pick

Totem Heritage Center and Around Ketchikan

  • January 24, 2006
  • Rated 3 of 5 by callen60 from Ozarks, Missouri
Totem Heritage Center and Around Ketchikan

Ketchikan was the one stop we explored on our own. Its main highlight is the Totem Heritage Center ($5), about a mile walk uphill and away from the water. In the 1960s, a real effort was made to save the few remaining totems from decay. They were moved here: some are encased in temperature and humidity-controlled environments to protect them; others are in the building itself. This place is well worth a stop and has lots to teach you about the variety of native cultures and the artistry and meaning of totems throughout southeastern Alaska. There are also several totems located in squares around town.

Creek Street is supposedly a main feature here, but it's overrated. Its racy history and interesting location give it a higher profile than it deserves. It's fun to walk along, but it won't rank high on your list of things you did in Alaska.

The Tongass Heritage Museum, located in the public library (629 Dock Street), will give you a nice introduction to Ketchikan and its history. The admission is minimal ($2, I think).

The Southeast Alaska Discovery Center (50 Main St.), jointly run by all the state and federal agencies, has excellent displays on the ecosystems of southeastern Alaska, an interesting movie, loads of resources on hiking, camping, trails, etc., and a great store.

This is a good place to do your souvenir shopping. Whether you're looking for trinkets or more substantial acquisitions, you can find it here. The highlight for me was the gallery of Marvin Oliver (5 Creek St.), an artist on the faculty at University of Washington. He works in several media, including some very impressive glass pieces, and has a gallery here in his wife's hometown. His blend of native themes and images with contemporary media is worth seeing.

Saxman Village is nearby, where totem carving is demonstrated by native craftsmen. Totem Bight State Park is about 10 miles away, too. I wanted to get there on my own but didn't leave enough time. It is possible to do, however. In addition, there's a white building on the dock that houses all the local tour operators, who will also help you out. However, by lunch they're starting to take off, so make your plans early. If you'd like to tour Misty Fjords National Monument by seaplane, you can do that here, too. I was sorely tempted by the photos.

From journal Alaska by Cruise Ship: You stay, scenery travels

Editor Pick

5) Totem Bight State Historical Park

  • July 14, 2005
  • Rated 4 of 5 by Drever from Ayr
5) Totem Bight State Historical Park

This park illustrates the Alaskan Indians way of life. It has a clan house and totems typical of 19th-century Indian villages. The setting, the former site of a traditional fishing camp, is a peaceful spot on the edge of Tongass Narrows, a short walk through woods. The park has guides to give talks, explanatory signs, a printed guide, an interpretive website, and a small bookstore to aid understanding.

In 1938, salvaging and remaking these large cedar monuments began. Skilled Indian carvers using traditional tools carved copies of original poles while teaching young artisans the skills. Modern paint with colours copied from traditional Native paints decorated the totems.

Inside the house is a single large room with a central fireplace surrounded by a planked platform. Such a house would have served as living quarters for several families of a particular clan. Each family had its own space, but shared the common fire. Removable floorboards provided storage for utensils, treasured items, and blankets, while food items hung from the beams and rafters.

A totem often stood at the front entrance of the family house to honour ancestors; to show the clan's standing, rights, and accomplishments; and to record a memorable ceremony or spiritual experience. A totem pole is a symbol of the qualities, experience, and exploits of the clan. The connection between the clan and the various figures carved into the pole may have been as a result a special gift from the animal, fish, or bird spirits. Some clans claimed certain totem figures as ancestors.

A 14-foot replica of a rescued totem of "The Man Wearing the Bear Hat" stands in the Park. The original totem was a memorial grave marker on Cat Island in southeast Alaska. This grave marker represented a man wearing a large carved wooden hat surmounted by a bear's head. Painted killer whales decorate the hat’s brim. Important occasions merited wearing such a hat and telling the stories it symbolizes, perhaps dramatising a little.

The story of the Man Wearing the Bear Hat goes: A long while ago, murderers killed the chief of the Bear Clan, and the killers refused to compensate for his death. The Bear clansman made a wooden hat, carving the bear with mouth open and teeth bared as though ready to attach an enemy. They then invited the murderer and his relatives to a potlatch – a ceremonial distribution of property and gifts - and challenged them either to pay for the death of the chief or to prepare for war. As the accused still did not pay, the Bear Clan attacked them. Since then, the Bear with teeth showing warns the Bear people are proud and will attack their enemies if wronged. The whale fin and painted killer whales on the post represent another crest of the group.

This is the story of one totem – just think of all the stories that have rotted away!

From journal North to Alaska Princess Style

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