Editor Pick
Old Meissen
- July 25, 2008
- Rated 4 of 5 by
Wasatch from heber ctity, Utah
Meissen, founded in the 10th Century, is best known for its world famous porcelain, but there is much more to this old German city than dishes. Indeed, although the tour of the porcelain factory was interesting, that was the least best part of our visit. The castle quarter and the old city, between the cliffs and the Elbe River, is the star of the show.
A German alchemist solved the secret of how the Chinese made porcelain in 1708. The key was using a special type of clay, kaolin(also the source of kitty litter and kaopectate). There was an easy to mine kaolin deposit near Meissen, where the Elector of Saxony established Europe's first porcelain factory in the town castle. The de rigueur porcelain factory visit in Meissen was more interesting than the brochures make it sound. Instead of visiting the factory itself, there
is a detailed demonstration in small theater of how the expensive, famed, hand painted knickknacks and dishes
are made. A left turn out the exit of the demonstration theater brought us to the factory store which offered plenty of ways to spend money. Prices are lower on seconds, pieces with flaws so small that they are hard to spot. Seconds are in the smaller show room to right on entering the store. There is a also sort of museum of porcelain in the lobby of the building.
After the factory visit, we bussed up hill to the Albrechtsburg castle. Built in 1471, the castle is one of the outstanding examples of late Gothic civic architecture, especially noted for the exterior staircase in the courtyard. From 1710-1865 the castle was the home of the porcelain factory. Today, the castle is an art museum. We can only take a certain number of old castle interiors on any one trip, and we had our fill by the time we reached Meissen, so we skipped going inside. The view from the courtyard of the surrounding buildings were impressive. The cathedral, an old Gothic pile, was near the castle. Like castle interiors, we had had our fill of old Gothic churches by then, so we skipped visiting the cathedral as well. There are several fine old 15th -18th houses near the cathedral.
There are several good view points around the castle hill over looking the old town below and the Elbe River.
Following a visit to the castle, one can of course return to the old town far below by the way you got there, the paved road on the backside of the cliff, either by car, bus or taxi, but walking down to the old town is the way to go. Facing the castle gate, the street to the old town is to the right. Just look for the sidewalk that starts down. The walk soon turns into a street that is actually several blocks of stairs, so steep is the route. Nevertheless, the stair street is lined on both sides with ancient houses.
After the castle visit, we walked back to the ship through the heart of the old city. She stayed with the tour guide for the usual informative lecture on notable places and history. I took off on my own, and found my way into an incredibly quaint restaurant in a half timbered house with a vine covered garden in back where a wine tasting was underway. Skipping a long story, by happenstance, I met the host of the wine tasting a few days earlier. He recognized me, invited me to join the group, and I got to sample several nice local wines. As for how I met the host, a word of advice: if you are curious about something in Europe, ask the guy who seems to be in charge, or just ask any nearby native. Such encounters sometimes pay off, and never offend.
In the heart of the old town, the 15th Century Frauenkirche, noted for its vaulting, has a pleasant interior and porcelain bells, from 1929, using leather clappers. Nearby are the interesting gables of the 16th-century Renaissance Brewery (Brauhaus), but Meissen's highlight is the well preserved old town, especially around the Markt, with a fine late Gothic town hall, circa 1470. There are no grand sights, just an attractive small town dating back centuries in time.
Take the time to explore all the streets of the charming old town. None disappoint.
If you arrived by boat-- in add-on to the river cruises, there is ferry between Dresden and Meissen-- you had great views of the castle towering high above the old town as you arrived. If you didn't arrive by boat, walk at least half way across the bridge over the Elbe River or cross the river for the view.
Dresden was all but wiped off the face of the Earth by Allied bombing in WWII and was mostly rebuilt in Stalin Modern rather than restored by Communist East Germany. That, along with Meissen's inherent attractiveness, made Meissen the best stop outside of Prague on our trip.
From journal Elbe River Cruise, Berlin to Prague