Copacabana (General)

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Editor Pick

Cerro Calvario

  • January 31, 2007
  • Rated 5 of 5 by SeenThat from Tel Aviv, Israel
Cerro Calvario



Copacabana is built between Cerro (Hill) Calvario and Cerro Niño (Child) Calvario. The Cerro Calvario delimits the city to the north and is dedicated to the Via Crucis suffered by Jesus; the place has been developed by the Franciscans and the many crosses along it date back to the forties of the last century. The site is divided into fourteen stations, paralleling the traditional ones in Jerusalem; the stone crosses on each bear a dedication to the contributor as well as the appropriate Bible passage. From the top awesome views of the city and the Lake Titicaca are available.

Every year, on Good Friday, thousands of pilgrims journey from all over Bolivia to Copacabana on foot to do penance on Cerro Calvario; many climb the stony path on their knees. At the end of the day, a candlelit procession begins at the Basilica, led by a statue of Christ in a glass coffin and a replica of the Virgen de Candelaria. At the summit, they light incense and buy miniature images of material possessions, in hopes of being granted the actual item by the Virgin. During regular days, many sellers create a colorful spectacle along the way. Beyond the miniatures and snacks, they sell alcoholic drinks used for "challas," or traditional blessings.

The Titicaca Lake - at the hill's base - is around 3810m above the sea level, and the hill rises above it maybe another 200m; if acclimatized to the altitude, that means a ten minutes easy climb, if not, it means arriving red-faced and fighting for oxygen half an hour after beginning the climb. Hence, it is recommended to attempt such a climb after being at least a week or two on the plateau; arriving after visiting La Paz or Puno is a good idea. The best time of the day is by the sunset, when the lake and town are wonderfully illuminated; there are no electric lights in the surroundings, thus it is better to descend before it gets too dark. At the hilltop it is possible to walk downwards toward the lake, however through that route it is not possible to return to the town due to the cliffs.
Editor Pick

Catedral de la Virgen de Copacabana

  • January 30, 2007
  • Rated 5 of 5 by SeenThat from Tel Aviv, Israel
Catedral de la Virgen de Copacabana



The Catedral de la Virgen de Copacabana is at the very center of the town and it dominates not only the landscape but the cultural life as well. Sparkling white, it was built between 1605 and 1820 and is famous due to the statue of the Virgen de Copacabana, a statue carved in wood by an Indian artist, Tito Yupanqui. On the first two days of February, the Fiesta de la Virgen de Copacabana is celebrated on the place to commemorate the day in which the figure arrived to the town, on February 2, 1583. The cathedral and the adjacent Via Crucis at the Cerro Calvario became one of the main pilgrimage centers in Bolivia and South America.

The place was built in stages; the Capilla Mayor was built between 1614 and 1618, while the first Basilica was built between 1668 and 1678. The Basilica seen today dates from 1805. The altar was built in such a way that sunlight illuminates it directly, while the rest of the church is kept in relative darkness.

It is interesting to note that in 1826, one year after the Bolivian independence, all the gold and silver were expropriated by the first president of the republic to create the first Bolivian coins.

The statue is housed in the higher floors, in the Camarin de la Virgen. It was carved on a hard cactus called maguey and is covered in gold, and her clothes are in Incan fashion and colors; strangely the statue has a wig of natural hair. Slightly over 1.2m in height, it holds a child Jesus in her left hand and in her right hand a basket and a candle; a crown adorns her head as well as the head of the child.

In the early afternoon, it is possible to meet the many drivers and their cars that arrive from all over the country to have their cars blessed. The road in front of the church, by the square, is transformed into a huge parking lot, and a priest passes from car to car and blesses them. The cars are adorned with flowers and miniatures of the material things the owners wish to themselves; money, houses and cars are the classics.
Editor Pick

Crossing to Peru: Khasani and Parquipujio

  • January 30, 2007
  • Rated 5 of 5 by SeenThat from Tel Aviv, Israel
Crossing to Peru: Khasani and Parquipujio



The most popular way to cross to Peru from Copacabana, Bolivia, is from Khasani, nine kilometers south from the town. Minivans and taxi leave during the day from the plaza on 6 de Agosto Street; minivans charge 2.5BOB, while shared taxis 6BOB. Both leave only when they fill up, meaning that at the low hours of the afternoon reaching the border can take some time. The trip roughly follows the Titicaca Lake shoreline.

Once there things are simple and friendly. A beautiful church followed by a stone arch separate between the countries. The Bolivian check out is simple and the Peruvian immigrations proved to be highly efficient and in the random day I visited, it took less than thirty seconds per person to get the stamp on the passport and be dismissed with a smile. The vast majority of nationalities get visas on arrival; but due to possible changes it is recommended to check out the situation before reaching Khasani.

Another option to cross the border is a place with the intriguing name of Parquipujio (apparently an Aymara language distortion of the Spanish "Parque Pujio" - Pujio Park). To reach the place it is necessary to head back to Tiquina - however do not cross the straits back - and then to take a shared taxi to Parquipujio. Once there an archway with a flamingo on its top marks the border. On the day I visited the immigration booths were deserted and the village on the Peruvian side seemed to have no inhabitants except for a pack of wild dogs and a few, slow-blinking, long-eyelashed llamas. However the lakeshore here was especially delightful and unspoiled, with a strange resemblance in shape, views and odors to a Mediterranean coast, justifying thus the trip.

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