The oldest monastery in Moravia was established beside the Morava River in 1078. Today the building is a national cultural monument and has functioned as a military hospital since the monastic order was forced to disband in the 1780’s. The tallest cathedral in Moravia dominates the skyline of the city and can be seen across the plains for miles. The largest pipe organ in Central Europe is the focus for several annual music festivals, as well as doing duty for regular mass during the week. Two of the city’s three archbishop’s palaces survive to the present day. The older palace is remarkable for its preserved 12th century stonework, and the newer still functions as the seat of the Moravian archbishopric. There are a further dozen churches and chapels within the historic centre, the most notable of which are St Michael’s, with it’s notorious depiction of a pregnant Virgin Mary and subterranean fresh-water spring, and the Jan Sarkander chapel, built on the site of the medieval prison and torture chamber.

The secular architecture of Olomouc is also remarkable. The imposing 14th century town hall, unique astronomical clock, and UNESCO world-heritage-listed Holy Trinity Column are complemented by the human scale of the many fountains scattered across the historic centre.

A colossal system of walls and moats was built to protect the city in the face of 18th-century military conflict between Austria and Prussia. Almost 2km of the wall survives, the remainder having been demolished when modern weapons made it obsolete. A ring of grand parks and gardens follows the path of the fortifications, and neatly separates the historic preservation zone from the newer suburbs. The suburban barracks occupied by Russian soldiers during the communist era are now empty and decrepit, but the Czech army still has a sizeable administrative presence in the city.

Moravia’s oldest university (second in the Czech lands only to Prague) was established in Olomouc in 1573. It continues its fine tradition of educating doctors, philosophers, linguists, musicians and artists, and ranks among the most prestigious universities in the Czech Republic. Like many university towns, there’s vibrant nightlife, and plenty of inexpensive bars and cafes. The 15000 university students are also enthusiastic participants in the city’s cultural life. The Moravian philharmonic orchestra performs regularly and there’s a performance at the theatre almost every night. There are so many festivals that you’re almost guaranteed of one being in progress, no matter what time of year your visit oc

The closest destinations are in the hills to the north. The Olomouc zoo and the pilgrimage church on Svatý Kopeèek (Holy Hill) are a mere 8km from the city, and buses run every 15 minutes during the day. The historic towns of Unièov and Šternberk are just a little further, and in the thick forests of the Sovinecko state park are the Rešov waterfalls and Sovinec castle.

Helfštyn castle is about an hour east of Olomouc, and to get there, you’ll need to pass through the historic walled town of Lipník Nad Beèvou. Further to the east in the Beskydy hills are ski fields at Puštìvny and the outdoor museum of traditional architecture at Rožnov pod radhoštìm. If you’d prefer to see the traditional wooden architecture of the region in its natural setting, Štramberk is a beautiful town with many fine examples. Another interesting place is the birthplace of Sigmund Freud at Pøíbor, which is within walking distance from Štramberk.

And when was the last time you took a boat ride along an underground river? If you’re in Olomouc, you only need to travel 60km to the Punkevní caves. The fascinating town of Boskovice is nearby. A major centre of Jewish culture in pre WWII Moravia; it has one of the largest Jewish cemeteries in the country and a well preserved Jewish quarter. There are also the majestic and poignant ruins of a medieval clifftop castle and quite possibly the best little coffee shop in the entire country!

Some of the best artworks in the Czech Republic (Titian, Breughel) hang in the museum at the archbishops’ chateau in Kromìøíž, 35km south of Olomouc. The chateau and its extensive manicured gardens are UNESCO world heritage listed as outstanding examples of Baroque architecture.

Another site of world importance within a day-trip's reach of Olomouc is Slavkov U Brna, better known by its German name Austerlitz, and as the site of Napoleon’s greatest military triumph. A monument to peace marks the battlefield and the Slavkov chateau has a permanent exhibition explaining in detail the events surrounding the great battle, which is reenacted every year in early December.

Another good day trip from Olomouc is to visit the Javoøicko caves and then walk the 5km to spectacular Bouzov castle, a former stronghold of the Teutonic knights and now a popular location for the filming of fairy-tales.