If there’s one sight that’s almost representative of Mumbai, it’s the Gateway of India. Not the prettiest or the most impressive of monuments in India, but definitely one of the best-known. The Gateway of India stands sentinel, perched at an awkward angle on the edge of the land. A low parapet—with uncomfortable narrow stone benches built all along it—surrounds the basalt Gateway on three sides, with a wide gap on the seaward side, where a flight of broad steps leads down to where the murky waters of the Arabian Sea wash the lowest stairs. This is where large and shabby boats offer cruises around the harbour; and this is where families from all across India, babies, and grandparents and toddlers in tow, line up to gape at the Gateway. The stone benches are almost always occupied, by groups of youths; families; and the odd young couple holding hands. Hawkers wander round, selling ice cream and its Indian equivalent, the cardamom and pistachio scented kulfi. And there are the ubiquitous photographers, offering to take the best ever photos of tourists against a backdrop of the gateway. They’re there even long after sunset, when the Gateway’s beautifully lit up—the illuminated monument is quite a sight. And it’s a busy place.I couldn’t find space to sit, and had to content myself with strolling around the structure. The Gateway of India dominates the seafront, but once you get close to it, it doesn’t feel overwhelmingly large- only, if my research is right, 83 feet tall at its highest point, and 48 feet in diameter. The building was designed by the Scottish architect George Wittet, who was Assistant to the Consulting Architect to Bombay in the early years of the 20th century.
Wittet designed the Gateway in an Indo-Saracenic style- which translates into somewhat conical arches, solid columns, and heavy square grills carved from stone. The building was built to commemorate the visit, in December 1911, of King George V to India- but the Gateway itself was completed only in 1924. Considering the fact that the Gateway was built in honour of the British monarch, it’s rather ironic that after India became independent, the last British troops to leave the country passed through the Gateway. The 1st Battalion of the Somerset Light Infantry marched out under the gate in a special ceremony on February 28, 1948.
Entry to the Gateway is free- there’s actually no `entry’ as such, since it’s more or less open, and you can wander in just about when you want. Try to go early in the morning, when it’s not too crowded. This is also about the best time to explore the area around the Gateway- in particular, the impressive Taj Mahal hotel, which stands right behind the Gateway.