When you first approach Stavanger Domkirke you likely will be underwhelmed by this cathedral. Located in the heart of central Stavanger, this 11th-century cathedral looks very plain indeed. The large grey stones, short stature and nearly unadorned exterior bring to mind a medieval fortress rather than a cathedral. Even the entrance looks like a fortress tower instead of a gateway to spiritual salvation. The austere exterior, however, belies the treasures inside and the important historical role of this cathedral.

Stavanger Domkirke was built at the end of the 11th century by Bishop Reinald from Winchester in order to, as legend has it, wed the king for a third time. King Sigurd the Crusader had divorced Queen Malmfrid and needed to find a place to marry Cicilia after the bishop in Bergen refused to perform the ceremony. The king donated money and land to the bishopric at Stavanger, the cathedral was built and the king married again. But this close relationship between king and bishop cost Bishop Reinald his head, so to speak. Reinald was hanged by King Harald Gille when the bishop refused to reveal where the king's treasures were hidden. So much for the benefits of royal patronage.

The cathedral was originally built in Anglo-Norman style and after 25 years of construction the cathedral was consecrated to the Holy Trinity in 1125. This is also the year that the city of Stavanger counts as its founding year. Saint Swithun, a 9th-century Winchester bishop, was chosen as the cathedral's patron saint; his arm is rumored to be among the original relics. Stavanger grew in religious importance with its power peaking in the late 13th and early 14th centuries. Stavanger was home to many churches, a cloister, a cathedral school and a hospital. Disaster visited the cathedral in 1272 when a fire destroyed part of the 12th-century Romanesque structure. The choir was rebuilt and enlarged in the Gothic style between 1272 and 1303.

Everything revolved around the church but this control was to be short-lived. The Black Death devastated Stavanger and caused great social upheaval leading to a decline in religious administration and control over the substantially smaller population. The Reformation in 1536 and the confiscation by the king of the church's goods and properties further weakened Stavanger. The city languished for a number of decades until the new Lutheran church decided to re-establish the church. Coupled with the new secular focus on the economy, the city began to grow becoming a regional administrative, tax and judicial centre. The oak timber export business drew immigrants to Stavanger.

The timber business was so successful that within a few decades the entire region had been deforested. The dramatic decrease in royal revenue led to the decision by King Christian V, in 1682, to move Stavanger's Episcopal seat to Kristiansand. The King even decreed the inhabitants to be forcibly removed to Kristiansand but they resisted. It was not until 1925 that Stavanger was restored to its former status as a bishopric.

A major renovation of the Cathedral was undertaken in the 1860s greatly altering the Cathedral's exterior. The beautiful stone walls were plastered and the Cathedral's distinctive medieval look disappeared. A major restoration was undertaken from 1939 - 1964 partly reversing the earlier ‘restoration'. Despite this, Stavanger Domkirke is the only Norwegian cathedral built of stone that has retained its original style.

The interior of the Cathedral hosts a number of treasures that illustrate the importance of the Cathedral throughout its history. One would think that the Romanesque and Gothic structure would clash with the Baroque and Rococo treasures; however, here they seem to belong together.

Upon entering the fortress-like entrance tower you will immediately notice the large intricately- carved epitaph plaque. Stavanger Cathedral is replete with these illustrations of piety by bishops and wealthy merchants alike.

The majority of the interior provides a fine example of a Romanesque church. The ceiling is fairly low and the windows are relatively small leading to a very dark and sombre atmosphere perfect for reflection. This dark atmosphere stands in stark contrast to the bright and airy altar area. Whether it was simply an accident of the Gothic style or a deliberate attempt to get one's attention your eye is immediately drawn to the altar area, its light-coloured walls, dark stone beams reaching to the heavens and the elaborate stained-glass windows. The exterior side of this portion of the cathedral is the only part of the exterior that is decorated. Considering this is essentially the back of the cathedral most visitors will miss the decorative Gothic facade and statues if they do not venture to the lake-side of the cathedral's exterior.

My favourite feature is the brightly decorated Baroque pulpit carved in 1658. In all my visits to churches and cathedrals in Scandinavia I have never seen such a bright and elaborately decorated pulpit. I could spend hours taking in the faces of the angels, the depictions of the saints and the scenes from the Bible. Okay, it might border on gaudy but it is certainly interesting. I can just imagine many a child (and maybe a few adults) who, throughout the centuries, stared at the pulpit in an effort to stave off boredom during all those sermons.

I could have explored Stavanger Domkirke for at least an hour but, unfortunately, my Danish host mother was on a mission to hit as many sites in downtown Stavanger as was humanly possible on my last day in Norway. Since we had a boat to catch, my 10-minute visit to the interior was certainly insufficient. This building is worthy of much more attention. Stavanger Domkirke is on my list of sites to visit on my return trip.

From September to May, Stavanger Domkirke is open Tuesday-Thursday and Saturday from 11am-4pm. From June to August, Stavanger Domkirke is open 7 days a week from 11am-7pm. The There is Sunday morning service at 11am. Admission is free.