- Jose Kevo
- First Reviewer
- 4 out of 5
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Editor Pick
The Upper Loop Walk
- August 11, 2006
- Rated 4 of 5 by
Jose Kevo from Middle-of-Nowhere, Missouri
As an introductory warm-up trek, there's a two-hour walk beginning where the main bridge crosses the Río Caldera. Looking up through the mountains slightly to the right, notice a clearing where a road passes. The town's overview from there will be the least of encounters following this unpaved course of moderate difficulty.
Heading right from the bridge, the range begins a steady climb in what will be the steepest uphill sections for the entire hike. There's glimpses through trees as the road rises above Boquete, and then cuts inland and gradually weaves in all directions to spare from having to make a direct ascent.
The area is well shaded through these parts, and passes along rustic homes tucked away in lush vegetation. Inhabitants always offered greetings, and were willing to engage in conversation; hikers obviously far and few between. At times you'll feel like you're heading out of the way, but stay the course.
Signs of civilization give way to large open expanses which roll-off through valleys. About a quarter of the way through the jaunt, the sweeping vista of Boquete sprawls below, and it's the only roadside vantage point from where the town can be seen, for now. Disturbing the peace were chainsaws clearing forest, and large equipment constructing roadway and drainage systems in preparation for the growth explosion that will soon saturate foothills.
Aside from the overlook of Boquete, the highlight of this walk is passing along all that flourishes in the rich volcanic soil. Steep slopes have been cultivated with avocados, bananas, oranges, coffee and other crops. Fragrances from the springtime blossoms of coffee plants rivaled the wild flowers growing among the most amazing weeds that even manage to bloom and look presentable. Splashes of vibrance were further illustrated from bougainvillea, massive cacti, and other garden varieties prospering at will.
Sucking the crisp mountain air was exhilarating, even after the dirt road had evened out through the middle section, before descending just as steeply as it began. The final stretch passes through the hamlet of Jaramillo Alto. Take a left at the pair of tee-intersections, and Boquete is just beyond the river.
I later discovered that Lonely Planet's Boquete map shows a couple of short-cuts that must have not looked like much on the spot. Obviously, staying on the clearest path gives the full tour! The only directional advisement involves coming to an unmarked, four-way intersection, which also appears on the map. I gambled on taking a left, and you should, too, as this follows the rim that eventually circles back towards town.
The road passes El Explorador, a small cafeteria and garden. Unfortunately, it was closed on a Monday. This was the only place en route for purchasing snacks/drinks. Otherwise, bring your own.
These upper regions can become more than just a gadabout as the road passes along Hotel Los Establos and the luxury bungalows of La Montaña y El Valle; both appearing exquisite and expensive.
From journal The Outlandish Bounty of Boquete
Editor Pick
The Central Plaza
- August 11, 2006
- Rated 5 of 5 by
Jose Kevo from Middle-of-Nowhere, Missouri
Hardly concealed, Boquete's Central Plaza breaks from the norm without a cathedral located around its borders, but that's the only thing missing. As commonly found in Latin American settlements, these centralized areas prevail as a hub for local interactions, a place where everyone eventually finds themselves at some point during waking hours of any day. As a traveler, I highly recommend following tradition, since this obvious landmark could prove to be Boquete's most unexpected attraction!
With such demanding environs requiring strenuous workouts, downtimes are inevitable, whether brief respites or full-day recoveries. Retiring to this picturesque setting permits taking full advantage of situations where the only exertion required involves people-watching skills. It won't matter exactly where you sit or which way you're facing. Every position enriches a front-row seat towards private surveillance and shared experiences.
Centered around a large gazebo, the sectioned gardens are well manicured and further rejuvenate the way gentle mountain breezes trifle with sprinklers to arouse a refreshing effervescence. An assortment of towering conifers shade the park and lure a fleeting amount of songbirds and chattering parrots and parakeets to mingle with voices. As if in reverence to the tranquil bliss, Boquete was the first and only Latin American destination I've visited where throbbing music wasn't part of the ambience for distracting from intrinsics.
The town's history and culture have undoubtedly been authored from this magnetic block, which swarms with animations as locals go about their daily business, but never without time for stopping to socialize. Episodes transpire familiar, but yet so foreign as a reminder that too many fast-paced societies have sacrificed importances of amicable connection. Boquete's lifestyles and mannerisms on display are genteel and simplistic, decipherable even when you can't hear conversations or perhaps understand the language.
The height of movement unfolds in mid-afternoon once schools have dismissed, and students of all ages fluctuate with impish behaviors. Younger ones were usually accompanied by mothers, which further postponed household duties long enough to stop and exchange news and gossip while children played. Of an evening once scattered lamps dimly light the area, young lovers pass hand-in-hand, retreating to the darkest of corners for stolen moments in places which have unquestionably wooed the hearts for local romances over generations.
By most travelers' standards, Boquete will appear severely lacking when it comes to major attractions and entertainment venues, and thankfully it is! Beyond exploring the abundance of area natural highlights, the central plaza shouldn't be taken for granted or simply written off. Not only is it recommended for catching welcomed breathers, but voyeuristic photo opportunities are endless.
A smile begets smiles; a buenas is always reciprocated while presenting chance for conversation. Locals were very curious and ready to interact, though most foreigners keep right on walking as if they didn't exist. Basic Spanish helps, but many were eager to practice English. Situations are always what you make of them, but the Central Plaza is one not to be missed from any capacity.
From journal The Outlandish Bounty of Boquete
Editor Pick
Festivals and Fairgrounds
- August 11, 2006
- Rated 4 of 5 by
Jose Kevo from Middle-of-Nowhere, Missouri
Boquete celebrates with a pair of renowned festivals attracting crowds from Panama and Costa Rica. The Flower and Coffee Festival is largest, running 10 days in January. The Orchid Festival, a 6-day revelry in April, is part of observances for the Chiriquí Province anniversary.
Arriving in time for the Orchid Festival was an unexpected treat of celebration and education regarding these delicate blossoms that have long fascinated. More than 1,200 species of orchids burgeon in Panama, and can be found growing wild just about everywhere. Locals pride themselves on gardens which burst from the rich, volcanic soil, but flaunting prize possessions at this festival was something to behold.
Events and activities never got underway until the sun went down, and grew in momentum as the night progressed. The fairgrounds are a sprawling, manicured garden with an awe-inspiring assortment of flowers and tropical plants hemming the various sections which make for pleasant strolls, day or night. Blended into the scenery, scattered kiosks circulate their own fragrances with brewed coffees and fresh-baked pastries.
A large stage on the central lawn is where crowds began gathering after 8:00pm. Pageantry and fanfare included all the social formalities while honoring distinguished guests, gardeners and notables making contributions and sacrifices for upholding the all-but-sacred floral codes. I was impressed and amused by all that transpired; Latinos always finding a way to make the biggest ado over the least significant things, while keeping the crowd mesmerized.
With no seating availabilities, everyone stood for hours; applauding and cheering on cue, until the grand finale which ushered in a nightly dance; usually with live music. Even if you don't understand Spanish, the whole scenario was captivating and unparalleled for people watching.
In addition to Boquete's elite, Ngöbe Buglé Indians descend from the mountains. The ladies are always dressed in colorful array, but a festival calls for their very best with long skirts, shawls, beaded jewelry and accessories which a movie company's wardrobe department could never surpass. At times, surroundings felt as fictional as an outdated motion picture that belonged on an IMAX screen. Better yet, admission to this G-rated extravaganza was only $1.
Display lighting was poor, and after the first night, the whole orchid theme began to diversify as plants had been sold. The flower business is big in Boquete; obvious from nurseries found everywhere where you can see anything missed.
In addition to flowers and coffee, other foods and local handicrafts are sold inside fairgrounds, and other vendors set up along perimeter streets.
Even when there's not a festival, fairgrounds are "said" to be open of evenings and all day on weekends. Admission, $1. While gorgeous, you'll see just as many gardens lining Boquete's streets. The distant venture, to recommended Mi Jardín es Su Jardín, is more of the same unless also going to Café Ruíz.
Sometimes, festival rowdiness offends travelers. Here's related tips on What You Should Know.
From journal The Outlandish Bounty of Boquete