Dubrovnik

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Dubrovnik (General)

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SaraP
SaraP
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Editor Pick

Gem of the Adriatic

  • October 4, 2009
  • Rated 5 of 5 by Meggysmum from Oxford, United Kingdom
Gem of the Adriatic

Dubrovnik, in Croatia, is sometimes referred to as the Pearl of the Adriatic. The most delightful way so come across this medieval city is by cruise ship across the Adriatic. The early morning vista of white walls and terracotta roofs in the morning sun is a sight that will not be forgotten by myself or my family.

If you do arrive by cruise ship and intend on walking to the walled city get a map before you start. It is farther than you think and is also quite hilly and it is easy to get lost.
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This peaceful looking gem suffered terribly in the 1990s when an attack by the Yugoslav army laid siege to the city for over 6 months. The occupants were trapped within the medieval walls and bombarded by shelling from the hills overlooking the city. There was no electricity of communication in the city itself. It is difficult to imagine the extent of the damage that was done as there has been a great deal of repair work carried out on the 500 or so buildings that were damaged. 43 residents also lost their lives.

The city is a UNESCO World Heritage site due to its historical and architectural significance. This has led to an increase in tourism which can cause the area to become very crowded during the height of the summer months. There is limited accommodation within the city walls and not a great deal in the immediate area so it is wise to pre-book if planning a visit during July or August. This is when the weather is at its hottest and also when the city is playing host to its festival of art and theatre.
The city is approached over a bridge and the enormity of the walls becomes apparent. The citizens of Dubrovnik are exceedingly proud of this defensive structure and it has never been breached.

Visitors enter through Pile gate and it is a good idea to start the tour of the walls from this point. There is an admission fee paid at the kiosk and then visitors have free access to the walls. The suggested route is one-way to stop people having to pass each other. The steps up to the top of the wall are very steep and quite worn so would not be recommended to anyone who may be a little unstable on their feet. Some parts are also very narrow so extreme caution should be observed and a tight hold kept on younger visitors. Although the wall-walk is quite tiring in the heat of midsummer the views are absolutely stunning and should not be missed. The shining streets in the centre of the town can be seen thronging with people. Gaze in the opposite direction and there is a gorgeous view of the blue sea surrounded by green mountains with the shiny white walls of the town in the foreground. There is an area about half-way round where visitors may descend back into the town of may stay and take refreshments whilst admiring the birds-eye view. After completing a circuit of the walls and admiring the church towers and domes it is time to descend back down near the main gate.

The Big Fountain of Onofrio is just to the right of the gate and was part of the system for getting freshwater to the city since 1444. It is said to be lucky to drink from one of the spouts but this domed structure can be crowded. Immediately ahead of the visitor is the main street called the Stradum. The polished floor glints invitingly in the sunlight with colourful shops and street cafes lining the route. Glances to the left and right reveal hidden steps leading to residences and further streets. With careful observation it is possible to see where buildings have been repaired since the siege but the work has been lovingly done and very in-keeping with the structures.

The far end of the Stradum leads to Luza Square which is surrounded by historic buildings. There is also a smaller fountain called the Small Fountain of Onofrio which is situated by the church of St Blaise. It is possible to visit the church and the nearby Sponza Palace which is the home of the state archives. In this square is also situated Orlandos Column which is in memory of a mysterious figure who helped the people of Dubrovnik defeat their enemies in the 8th Century.

The city of Dubrovnik is incredibly compact and very easy to navigate on foot. There is a lot to see in a very small area but it is also a place that entices the visitor to sit and soak up the medieval atmosphere and the baroque design that has produced such a unique example of a European city.

From journal Cruising in the Western Med

Editor Pick

A Better Out of Season Destination?

  • April 21, 2009
  • Rated 4 of 5 by dangaroo from Warsaw, Poland
Until recent years Dubrovnik had lived a fairly happy life, initially living under the protection of the Byzantine Empire until it was a sovereign state under the rule of Venice and later Hungary, Dubrovnik and its surroundings then known as the Republic of Ragusa was completely independent for 4 centuries, it was a wealthy state and abolished slavery as early as the 15th century and accepted many Jewish refugees from the Iberian countries, the Republic had good diplomatic relations with pretty much everyone and did well as a sea-faring nation and even set up settlements as far away as India and the USA with their merchant navy, bringing back their findings. It suffered an earthquake badly in the 16th century which has destroyed the majority of the renaissance buildings. Napoleon attacked the Republic at the turn of the 19th century and Ragusa eventually succumbed to the French Illyrian Provinces which were eventually handed over to the Austrians. After the war, it became Yugoslavia and Dubrovnik took much of the brutal bombing from neighbouring Serbs, just about everyone there has lost a relative of some sort.

Dubrovnik is a fine looking city, whilst the outskirts consists mainly of shoddily new built housing, it's unllikely you'll be spending much time there other than if you are staying there. The city is relatively small and it's possible to walk everywhere, including to the hill behind the city from where you get a magnificent view over the city and the bay. The old town is done to perfection, every building inside the wall is in tip top condition and has a typical ancient Mediterranean feel with cobbled streets, an impressive fountain and narrow side streets which almost always lead you to the fortress wall eventually. Views from the fortress windows (not sure if that's what they are really called) leading on to the rocks or the sea are great fun to peer through and the city is exceptionally clean. Where Dubrovnik wins marks is that it manages to combine the magnificence of an Italian or Greek styled town with cheaper prices.

Croatian food is usually of a pretty good standard but the prices have creeped up over the years and it's no longer a case of not being able to spend your money for the grub.

Accomodation is likely to come to you with people actively looking for people to rent rooms at the bus station and ferry terminal in particular. Prices are relatively dear now but should never be more than 30 euros for 2 people and can still be had for 10 euros per person. The days of picking up a room for 5 euros per person are long gone though. The HI hostel is crap because they have a curfew and it's always fully booked during the summer months anyway!

The downside of the city for me is that the prices are high by regional standards and the city over the least 8 years has gone from people thinking that they are still at war to droves of tourists on the street, in particular Italians, Irish, British and Germans. The former are irritants in the clubs and the latter 3 tend to block up the roads by walking like sloths (never quite understood that phenomenon - everyone seems to be able to walk perfectly well at home.) It's really a bit too much for me when teh streets are so packed and if you feel the same - then it's worth heading here out of season and hoping for a bit of nice weather! As far as an attractive old town goes, Dubrovnik definitely tops the list in Croatia but I personally prefer Split and Zagreb.
Editor Pick

Montenegro Bus Tours

  • March 1, 2007
  • Rated 4 of 5 by KatyOlson from New York, New York
Montenegro Bus Tours

At the last quarter of the paved road in Petrovac, the main road that separates sand from hotel property, sit two daytrip salesmen. Friendly and eager to practice their English, the pair convinced my companion and I to purchase a number of excursions - from a day of white-water rafting with brusque, knowing guides, to an afternoon-long cruise along the coast's glistening waters and sporadic islands. The most memorable of these was a day-long trip to the port city Dubrovnik in nearby Croatia.

A four-hour bus ride and a stamped passport will land the curious traveler in Dubrovnik, Croatia's major port city that, in 1991, was rocked by major bombing and destruction. A museum remains today as tribute to the deceased, with photo montages, biographies and a video presentation dedicated to preserving their memory. Yet the city's beautiful, aging buildings are monuments themselves, nearly crumbling as a result of not only incoming armies but of the onset of time itself. A church across the street from the museum reaches the watercolor blue skies above; its interior, a near-blinding white, is decorated with imposing marble statues and deeply colored, golden-framed paintings.

The major tourist area of Dubrovnik features the typical fare found in any capital city: teddy bears donning Croatia-emblazoned T shirts and painted shot glasses, American-import beach reading and keychains are to be found within each well-kept shop. Bright white spots dot the horizon, gigantic, crisp-clean boats and yachts sway to and fro in the breeze, secured in the stone-covered harbor. Though Dubrovnik's is not the cleanest water, it is still a deep, clear green that native vacationers eagerly dive into, just yards from bobbing boats and ships.

The city is bustling with travelers from Serbia, America, Western Europe, and other parts of Croatia, their accents heard flowing out from streetside cafes and shops. Dubrovnik's broad appeal is unsurprising, for this striking, venerable city attracts tourists who seek both beauty and history.

From journal A Summer Stay in Montenegro

Editor Pick

A daytrip to Dubrovnik

  • April 13, 2004
  • Rated 5 of 5 by SaraP from London, England
A daytrip to Dubrovnik

Only 40km from the Montenegrin border lies the 1300-year-old jewel of Dubrovnik, whose appeal rests in the "Stari Grad" or old town. Within city walls lies a pedestrianised haven of marble-paved (slippery in the rain!) squares, steep cobbled streets, monasteries and convents, churches, palaces, fountains and museums, which are all hewn from the same honey-coloured stone. Motorists, users of public transport and day-trippers all arrive at one of three car parks and enter through the city's old gates. Though heavily and pointlessly shelled in 1991, Dubrovnik has since benefited (and well used) UNESCO reconstruction aid money.

The town is bisected by its main pedestrian promenade (the "Stradun"), running from the Pile Gate to the clock tower at the other end of town (and beyond to the new harbour). Just inside the Pile Gate, you can't miss the unstriking, but undeniably enormous, circular fountain, opposite which is the Franciscan Monastery which houses Europe's alleged second oldest operative pharmacy (apparently in continuous use since 1391). At the other end of the Stradun stands St Blaise's Church and the 1441 gothic Rector's Palace, now a museum with furnished rooms, baroque paintings and historical exhibits. In the next square along is the town's market.

The highlight of a trip to Dubrovnik is a walk along the 2km of its 25m-high city walls, dating from C13-16. From here, you have an unparalleled and ever-changing view across Dubrovnik's terracotta-tiled rooftops, flower-decked terraces and balconies, the harbour (still being constructed but the bobbing fishing boats make a pretty picture), St John's Fort (outside the walls and itself worthy of a visit -- more steps I'm afraid - €1.5) and the many spires and towers of the city as well as the glittering Adriatic.

If you do decide to stay overnight, remember accommodation inside the city walls is limited and therefore at a premium -- the choice is either to stay in a hotel in Lapad down the coast (usually bookings have to be for three or more days), splash out for a hotel in the town or accept an offer of a private room from one of the women waiting at the ferry terminal or bus station (or you can book one through the internet but will pay an agency fee of up to €30 for the privilege).

I can't resist one last recommendation -- the small cafe/bar next to the new harbour -- the most fantastic garlic squid or vast pan of whitebait for 35Kn (c£3/€5) per portion and excellent salad.

From journal Black Mountain - Montenegro

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