Description: Started in 1729, on the ruins of a church from the 16th century, the Zacatecas Cathedral was dedicated in 1752, consecrated in 1862 but not finished until 1904. Sometimes described as churrigueresque, other times as neoplateresque, but usually as Mexican baroque - the apex, the epitome, the finest, the culmination, the ultimate expression of Mexican baroque. I have heard all of these words to describe it and they are right. It is an awe inspiring example of Mexican baroque.
Nuestra Señora de Asunción, the Cathedral/Basilica of Zacatecas, is built of cantera, a local pink stone, that is intricately carved with the usual European religious images and also with images important to the indigenous peoples. The principal facade, the most elaborately carved, is dedicated to the Eucharist. There are a statues of eight apostles and of Christ. The columns and all spaces not filled by the statues are covered in carvings of pearls, grapes, cherubs, angels, clouds, vines, fruits, vegetables, feathers, shells, and other things peeking out from behind the carved foliage. The central rose window, if possible, seems even more intricately carved. The northern facade is dedicated to Christ and the southern to the town patron, Nuestra Señora de los Zacatecos. Both are also fantastically carved. The inside of the church is very plain as are most churches in Mexico. Many of its former riches and adornment stolen during the fight for independence and the revolution.
We visited in the late afternoon as the sun was descending rapidly. The change in colors on the main facade was amazing, from a bright but pale pink to a golden glowing red, all in a matter of half an hour. I couldn't get far enough away to take a picture of the whole church, or even half of it, but my zoom lens came in handy for making out the details. I recommend taking binoculars. On this trip we did not go inside; we had not brought appropriate clothing. The interior is worth a quick look but shorts and sleeveless shirts are not acceptable. I was also barefoot; I am sure I would have been struck by lightening.
The cathedral is located on the south side of the Plaza de Armas and is open daily from 6am to 1pm and again from 4pm to 9pm. The telephone number is 922-0490. There is no charge to enter but donations are appreciated. Give yourself at least a half hour to see the outside of the church. I have spent a couple of hours just staring at the same wall.
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