Since the train originates in Williams, that’s where we lodged both nights. Most lodging was booked when we pulled our last-minute plans out of a hat, so we ended up at the Rodeway Inn on Grand Canyon Boulevard.
The hotel is run by an Indian (not American or Asian) family. They are incredibly friendly and work hard to make sure you’re happy. Although a bit pricey for "budget," we were stuck. We had a double room that was comfortable for three bed-sleepers, and we set up the co-sleeper in the corner for the little one. The spartan accommodations did their utilitarian job. Wireless Internet access is free on site, which was nice and unexpected. There’s even a minimalist complimentary breakfast served in the morning. The blueberry muffins tasted homemade, and the kids enjoyed one of life’s simple pleasures: chocolate mini donuts, the kind with the plastic frosting.
Just north of the station there is a mock-up of a stable and saloon, complete with a wooden boardwalk where a shootout takes place each morning prior to the train departing for the canyon. The kids enjoy it as the local bandits argue over poker and who’s paying for breakfast ("Why don’t we get one of them there Egg McMuffins?"). One bandit gets shot as he’s standing over a pile of "horse hockey" and refuses to die in that spot. He asks to "rewind" that scene and to get "shot again" where there's no "number 2." The crowd enjoys the moment and the spirit in which this comedy is delivered.
The shoot out wraps and we board the train. The all-coach train consists of restored Pullman cars with about 20 rows of two seats on either side of an aisle. The seats can be "flipped" so that up to four people can face one another. The train makes the voyage in about 2 hours and 15 minutes. While you’re traveling, your car’s brakeman tells stories and fills you in on local lore. Traveling musicians entertain riders with everything from fiddling to banjo and cowboy guitar strumming. There’s a food car with snacks for purchase, and soft drinks (Pepsi) are complimentary to all.
After 3 hours of sightseeing at the canyon, the train makes its way back to Williams. All the kids are anticipating what they heard on the way up: The train is going to be robbed by the bandits on the way back. As it passes 5pm, a glance off to the east reveals the presence of the horseback gang. The bad guys pose for pictures, and eventually the marshal shows up and "arrests" them. The train arrives back into Williams in plenty of time for dinner, which, for us, was at Pancho McGillicuddy’s, right on Historic Route 66. The kids are exhausted and the canyon has been conquered.