Editor Pick
Denali National Park
- January 18, 2006
- Rated 5 of 5 by
callen60 from Ozarks, Missouri
Four hours by car from Anchorage (and less from Fairbanks), Denali IS the Alaska you've heard about: unpaved, untamed, and unbelievably BIG. Yet the road there is surprisingly good. For the first leg of the journey, it's not much different from the edge of backcountry in other (not so) western locations.
Then the Alaska Range comes into view. There is a feeling of spaciousness and of scale to this country that is unlike anything else you've seen. And although the mountain itself very well may elude you, unless you pin your satisfaction solely on seeing it, the experience won't disappoint you.
If you're heading there, your options are car, bus, or the Alaska Railroad. I'm a big train fan, but train tickets add up fast at $129 each way. The drive is easy, and two pullouts in Denali State Park (adjoins the southern end of the National Park) provide terrific views of Mt. McKinley and the Alaska Range (clouds permitting, of course).
Some may be surprised by 'Glitter Gulch' outside the park's eastern and only entrance. I found it less troublesome than I'd been led to believe. After all, visitors have to stay somewhere. We spent one night at Princess' Denali Wilderness Lodge, a rather large complex with a nice central lodge and a host of attractive motel buildings.
Park facilities are, of course, minimal. The new visitor center at the entrance wasn't quite finished by mid-June 2005. The only maintained trails are in this area. If you arrive after noon, consider pairing the center with a trail (such as Horseshoe Lakes) for a good introduction. (We came face to face with a moose here).
The park itself defies description. No other place made me feel so small. The valleys stretch on forever, formed by fantastic mountains on either side. Braided rivers flow everywhere, with birds constantly attempting to remove their inhabitants. A shuttle or tourbus from concessionaire Aramark (or another provider) is the only way to experience everything after mile 15 of the 90-mile park road (THE park road: the only one!). Be sure to do this: you have no chance of viewing the mountain if you choose to stick to those first 15 miles, and the scenery just gets better as you head deeper into the wilderness. Be prepared, however: if you go with Aramark, you're on a retrofitted schoolbus, so don't expect a luxurious ride. Should you choose to head all the way to Kantishna, you may relive those school day nightmares with a 14-hour bus trip (unless you choose to stay overnight at a lodge there). And bring your own food--tours give you a snack, but it won't be large. The shuttle will let you out anywhere along the road--and there are no trails. Just step out, and go.
And keep your eyes out for wildlife: Dall sheep, caribou, deer, eagles, and yes, grizzlies were all part of our tour, and our driver confessed that we'd had a well-below-average wildlife experience. Don't miss it!
From journal Alaska by Cruise Ship: You stay, scenery travels