Free; 10 am-6:30 pm Tues-Sun May-Sept, 10 am-5 pm Oct-Apr, last admission 4:30 pm.
From Praca da Figuera right across from the Carris kiosk is the stop for Tram # 15 to Belem. You can’t miss it as it’s two trams connected with each other to accommodate the locals as well as tourists who want to explore the suburb from which the Portuguese caravels set out for Brazil and India and the Far East. The trip takes about 15-20 minutes and you alight in front of a massive, gleaming white building that your camera cannot capture all of. On this site Prince Henry the Navigator built a little chapel for departing sailors that Vasco da Gama visited the night before his voyage to the Indies. To celebrate that voyage’s success, in 1502 Manuel I ordered this church and monastery to be erected. This World Heritage Site has elements of Gothic and Renaissance styles since it took about fifty years to complete , but its dominant style is Manueline, Portuguese Gothic, named for Dom Manuel I..
This monastery church is the site of royal tombs, but primarily celebrates da Gama’s global accomplishment-navigation of a sea route to India. From that accomplishment flowed the spices of the Orient that were taxed to fund the erection of this huge complex. Diogo de Boitaca, an architect supreme of the ropy, sea-going motif twists and turns so characteristic of Manueline, was the first architect.
Appropriately, its western wing that houses at its end the marvelous Museu da Marinha and the church itself exalt the maritime mastery this little nation attained in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries.
As you enter the church, tombs on your left and right immortalize Vasco da Gama and Luis de Camoes, the poet whose epic Lusiads praised da Gama’s achievement. A sculpture effigy of each man (emphasizing how small of frame and stature they were) adorns their biers. Appropriately da Gama’s tomb is embellished with nautical symbols, whereas Camoes’ displays a musical lute, often an accompaniment to the recitation of verse in his time.
Surprising to me were the paintings (in various stages of restoration) that surrounded the walls and ceiling of the main altar. Stained glass and windows in general are few in this dark interior so that taking photos is problematic. Not dark is the choir loft and upper vaulting, both of which are aesthetically striking. The fan vaulting over the nave is spectacular. Columns in the loft are slender and graceful, almost vine-like.
In contrast the main floor columns are staunchly large and round, though both kinds of columns have no surface undecorated with ships, coral, anchors, and rope-like filaments. The stained glass windows are vibrantly colorful;, the Madonna and child window photo shows these sacred figures with facial features characteristically Portuguese. A monument to Portuguese exploratory accomplishments, this church is a must see in Belem