Although it was still overcast when we left the Tapestry Museum, the heavy rains had gone and we decided that we would—after all—explore Bayeaux a little more. The town, despite its massive tourist attraction, seems to have retained its sense of decorum (it is, after all, the capital city of the Bessin District), and we didn’t feel we were in the middle of a tourist trap.
Bayeaux’s Cathedral was originally consecrated in 1077 but little remains of that church (only the crypt and part of the west tower) the vast majority being rebuilt in the 13th century, but the central tower was added in the 15th century, and (now considered to be a monstrosity) the dome was added in the 19th century. The decorated arches in the nave were superb, the vaulting immaculate, and the 18th-century pulpit was a delight. As we wandered the outside of this magnificent cathedral (that remarkably was undamaged in the bombing raids of World War 2), we were both fascinated and amused by the Gothic gargoyles that adorn its dizzy heights, and the sculptures around the entrances. They kept us busy for some considerable time.
Bayeaux operates a "petite train" to guide you through the sights of the town, but it’s not a difficult place to walk round, and the tourist board has placed numerous informative signs up around the streets. At least walking you can "call the shots," although the "train" may be a good way of orientating yourself.
We headed off for the tree-lined Place Charles de Gaulle to the lace-making museum (the main occupation for Bayeaux workers in the 1800s). This was a particular interest, as living in Nottingham (a major lace manufacturer that in effect removed the lace-making business from France) we were interested to read about and view their perspective of the history of manufactured lace. The square itself was named to celebrate the visit of the great leader, who visited the town in 1944.
We thoroughly enjoyed our exploration of the banks of the River Aure and the fine old properties that butt right up to the water’s edge. Rue St. Jean offers advantageous views of the old tannery and dying area of the town as the narrow river offered essential waters for the processes. A walk around the medieval ramparts made for an interesting city walk, with the ancient half-timbered houses forming archways with the old defensive walls.
Of course Bayeax is an ideal place to stay if you want to investigate the beaches of the Normandy Landing (Sword, Juno, Gold, and Omaha) and Arrowmanches-les-Bains offers great views of the beaches and a chance to spot the remains of the artificial harbour that was towed across the channel as part of the invasion strategy. If you’re travelling down the coast, make sure you check out the famous bottleneck, Pegasus Bridge, at Benouville. It’s stunningly stark, and will offer a chilling reminder of battles lost and won.