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LenR
LenR
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Old Belgrade

  • May 5, 2006
  • Rated 4 of 5 by LenR from Townsville, Australia
Old Belgrade

The oldest parts of Belgrade are in the immediate vicinity of Kalemegdan.

Kosancicev venac is located on the plateau overlooking the Sava River just below the fortress and it was here that a Serbian settlement took shape in medieval times. This gradually evolved into a community with a church and a cemetery. At the beginning of the 19th century, this area became the core for the expansion of Belgrade. Today, a few quiet cobbled streets and some interesting buildings still show glimpses of the Belgrade of better days.

The most important building was, and still is, the Holy Archangel Michael’s church. This was built by order of Prince Milos Obrenovic on the location of an earlier church dating from 1728. The new building, designed by Kuarfeldt is in classical style with Baroque elements was completed in 1840. Particularly important is the church treasury with ancient icons and richly adorned works of 17th-20th century goldsmiths.

The Serbian rulers Milos Obrenovic and Mihailo Obrenovic are buried in the church crypt while two outstanding figures of Serbian culture – Dositij Obrenovic and Vuk Stefanovic Karadzic – are buried in the churchyard.

The other ‘don’t miss’ building is the Pricess Lyubica’s Mansion, now a museum. Princess Ljubica Obrenovic moved into this Turkish-style residence just after its completion in 1831 and lived here for 10 years. Since then, it has been occupied by many people but in the 1970s it was restored and has been open to the public ever since. The rooms now reflect different styles of decoration ranging from Ottoman to Biedermeiser. Especially interesting are the Turkish-style rooms with beautiful carved furniture. The impressive arched collars deep below the house hold changing exhibitions.

While in the area, have a look at Kafana “?” (the question mark restaurant). The building is just across the street from the Orthodox cathedral. The building comes from the same period as the cathedral and is built with a wooden skeleton and clay and straw infill. The building was purchased at one time by Prince Milos Obrenovic and given to his personal healer, and he established it as a restaurant. The two-storey building changed owners and names several times before becoming Kod Saborne crkue (By the Cathedral). Finally the ecclesiastical authorities insisted that such a sign be removed because it was ‘sacrilege to the House of God’. The owner consented to the request and put up a temporary sign “?” which still stands today.

From journal Exploring Belgrade

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