The Indo-Portuguese Museum is well worth a visit and, as with most places in India, has a really cheap admission charge. It’s set in the superb, although somewhat limited, grounds of the well-kept gardens of the Bishop’s House. This is a semi-formal garden with many interesting religious-based statues. Admission to the garden is free and the museum is cheap (free on the first Thursday of each month).
We were well received by the single member of staff and both got the impression that we were probably the first and only customers of the day. He was keen to show off “his museum” and also to introduce us to the museum shop. This had a variety of oils on sale, and this sideline was “gently pushed” at us. I’m not sure if these concentrated oils were a good value, but we had to gently explain that although they were interesting, we were not likely to buy. The curator continued briefly with a soft sell, realised we meant what we said, and then took us around the museum exhibits.
Despite the fact that many churches were destroyed in the many battles that took place in this area, the museum has managed to amass a good-quality selection of Christian artwork and church architecture. In pride of place is an amazing 16th-century carved teak altarpiece, intact and almost in pristine condition. There’s a fascinating section dedicated to processional regalia, including a 17th-century silver and wooden cross (an impressive piece). Beautifully carved iconic items are well displayed, and if you want to take photographs, there is no restriction. Indeed, I felt that the curator was particularly pleased if I took photos. There was an impressively ornate lock on display, and we could only imagine that a set of large well-carved doors would be needed to “carry it off.”
Our guide gave us interesting insight into town life over the ages and described Cochin as a truly Cosmopolitan with at least six religions (Hinduism, Islam, Christian, Jewish, Sikhism, and Buddhism) living in close harmony. There have been up to 13 different cultures in the town, and families share that mix in their birth heritage. He proudly told us that his name was “Robinson.”
In recent excavations, archaeologists stumbled across the base of a huge building. This can be viewed in the museum’s cellar, and it’s believed that it was originally a food warehouse. The curator expressed surprise at the building's site because this area regularly floods and he surmised that the river would have originally been nearer the building. To me that made sense--a warehouse next to the river ideal for unloading cloths or spices as they were transported down the river.
Although this is not a massive museum, there’s plenty to interest the inquisitive and we were certainly entranced by the history of Cochin, as described by the guide, with its strong influences from China, Portugal, Holland, and England. An informative visit!