After visiting two of the Pinakotheken in the morning, we had enough of art for the day and headed for the subway station at Königsplatz. However, this being a Sunday, many Munich museums offer free admission, and I knew I was not going to make it to the subway station without at least taking a peak into the Glyptothek en route to see one of the most famous Greek statues in Germany.
Approaching Königsplatz along Brienner Straße from the Karolinenplatz, one enters what the Nazis intended to be the Acropolis Germaniae. The Nazi party hailed from Munich and had its early success here. After coming to power, Berlin was obviously the capital of the Third Reich, Nuremberg became the capital of the Nazi Party Rallies, and Munich was declared the capital of the movement. The area around Königsplatz was rich in neoclassical buildings from the 19th century and easily converted into what the Nazis thought appropriate for their forum. A plaque at the northeastern corner of the square (corner of Brienner and Arcis Streets if you left your compass at home) explains in German and English how the Nazis converted the area. Most of the Nazi additions were either destroyed during the war or pulled down shortly after – for real Third Reich architecture in Munich, visit the bombastic Haus der Kunst south of the English Gardens.
The square can serve as a basic course in classical architecture. The Propyläen gateway at the far end of the square was erected in the 1860s. It was inspired by the Acropolis and features Doric columns. At the south end, the Antikensammlungen (Collections of Antiquities) are housed in a 1840s building featuring Corinthian columns. It is the architectural counterpart of the Glyptothek, the Ionic colonnaded classical building of the 1820s on the north end of the square.
We made a brief stop in the Glyptothek, as it houses 1,000 years worth of Greek and Roman sculptures. It is one of the most important collections in Europe. Its most famous item is also one of the most famous Greek sculptures in Germany, the Barberinic Faun. It is in the second hall and is a large reclining male nude made around 220 BC. It was presumably originally on display in the Dionysus temple before the conquering Romans dragged it off to Italy.
(The Faun also is kind of featured in
Mr Wonka’s Berlin journal – presumably Aphrodite streaked by?)
Opening hours are Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 5 pm, closing at 8 pm on Tuesday and Thursday. Admission is €3, free on Sunday.