Two of the most famous temples in Kyoto are the Golden Pavilion (Kinkakuji), which lives up to its namesake, and Ginkakuji, whose Japanese character means the "Silver Pavilion," though no one has gotten around to covering this temple with silver leaf. Nevertheless, it is a gorgeous Zen complex built in the 15th century, complete with raked sand, a few buildings, one of which is the oldest Shoin-style building in existence with Japanese cypress thatched roof.
Ginkakuji was the first temple we visited during our tour of Kyoto. The day was gray and the temperature in the low 30s (unusual for April). I don't know whether the weather contributed to enhancing the mood of Ginkakuji, but I thought that the temple complex was magical. Upon entering the main entrance, we were immediately struck by the 50 m high hedges that lined both sides of the approach to the temple. The hedges were made of stones, bamboos, and camelias, and were truly magnificent. Upon passing the gate to the temple courtyard, you are immediately struck by a mound of sand, about 2-3 feet high, in the form of a cut-off, inverted cone, immacurately raked. How the sand remains in shape must be a miracle of design. Immediately to the left of the cone is a courtyard of sand, raked in undulating waves and patterns.
The whole temple complex was immaculate. Anything that might remind a visitor of modern times is disguised, for example the grills to the sewer were covered with bamboo sticks woven together. Even in the cold and rain, several men were sweeping the temple walkways, trimming trees, and picking up fallen leaves. In this spotless environment, there was only one, just one, fallen magnolia bloom that had yet to be picked up by the gardeners. Follow the road at the back of the temple to a high point to admire the temple complex from above, examine the raked sand patterns, and see folding below you, the city of Kyoto.