The Galleria Palatina is just one museum within the enormous Palazzo Pitti, on the other side of the Arno in Florence. It houses beautiful paintings in eye-popping settings. The gallery is part of the former Medici residence, also home to Italian royalty of the 19th century, and the decor reflects this former opulence. Entrance is 12,000 lire/person ($6) and tickets are sold until 5pm; the museum closes at 6:00.
The Sala de Saturne is famous for its Raphael's, but they have been moved to the last room because the Sala de Saturne's ceiling fresco is undergoing restoration. In fact, the order of the rooms was backwards from the layout in several of our guidebooks, but we soon figured it out. Galleria Palatina is a manageable-sized museum with much to recommend it. We were a bit pressed for time, but saw all of the rooms in 50 minutes. There are great Titians, dreamy Del Sartos, and luscious Caravaggios, especially his Sleeping Cupid.
You mustn't look down the whole time. The ceiling frescoes in the Sale Venere, Apollo, Marte, Giove, and Saturno are incredible designs by Pietro da Cortona. Don't miss Reni's painting of Cleopatra with her tiny asp in the Sala Apollo. One other room you mustn't miss: the Sala della Stufa, the "hot bath room," with its wall frescoes and tile floor. With bathrooms like these, who needs living rooms?