The main door of the Ca’D’Oro door can be a little difficult to find if you don’t keep your eyes peeled. Since we arrived at a time when the stunning façade of the building was swathed in tarpaulin for renovations, we missed seeing the palace in all its glory- and had a bit of trouble finding the entrance to it. The way to get to it is to walk slowly down the narrow corridor-like lane that leads from the Ca’ D’Oro vaporetto dock, and to keep an eye on your left as you walk along. The plaque with the words `Galleria Franchetti’ is beside an unobtrusive door about halfway down this lane.We visited the Ca’D’Oro on a warm afternoon, and what struck us immediately was the quiet coolness of the building: very welcome after the crowds that swarm around the Palazzo Ducale. And the fact that the Galleria’s collection, though small, is good, made it a worthwhile visit.
The Ca’D’Oro- Golden House- draws its name from its original décor, which included gilt. The building, a Gothic palace officially known as Palazzo Santa Sofia, was built in 1434 by a certain Marino Contarini for his wife. Later still, in the 19th century, a Russian prince gifted the palace to a dancer called Maria Taglioni, who was busy building up a collection of palaces along the Grand Canal. It was only in 1922 that Ca’D’Oro was handed over to the City of Venice.
Today the Ca’D’Oro has a formidable collection of art, in which local talent, including famous names like Titian, Bellini and Tintoretto, features prominently. That doesn’t mean there is only Venetian work here- you’ll also see paintings, sculpture and other art by masters from all across Europe, such as Anton van Dyck and Jan van Eyck. Among the best-known paintings here are Gentile Bellini’s famous Procession in St Mark’s Square, Andrea Mantegna’s Saint Sebastian, Titian’s Venus, and Vittore Carpaccio’s Annunciation, in which the Angel Gabriel is depicted with an unusual set of wings- with green and red stripes.
But paintings are not all there is to see at Ca’D’Oro. There are other equally interesting works of art: a gorgeously carved 15th century wooden staircase, plenty of 15th century furniture, and marble figures dating back to the heyday of the Byzantine empire. There are figures crafted from metal- among these some amazing pieces by Padovana- and a variety of ceramics, which include brightly coloured and carefully painted maiolica.
Entry to Ca’D’Oro is €5 per person. The museum is open the same hours as the Accademia: 8.15 till 2 on Monday, and till 7.15 the rest of the week.