Frauenkirche (Dom zu Unserer Lieben Frau or Church
of Our Lady) is Munich’s trademark and located close to the Marienplatz in the
pedestrian zone. The two imposing oxidized copper onion-shaped domes atop the two
98-meter-high spires can be seen from many parts of the city, and its eight bells
have a wonderful ring.
The church was constructed from 1468 to 1488 of simple
fairly monotonous red brick in a late Gothic style. It was extensively damaged
during the Second World War, but the two towers are original. The building is 109m long, 41m wide, and the roof 55m high.
On the whole, this church doesn’t rank with the famous
Cologne Cathedral, Notre Dame in Paris, St Paul’s in London, or St Peter’s in
Rome, but it has an attractiveness of its own. Its interior is surprisingly
simple and very light - it completely lacks the darkness and gloom that seem to
come standard with other 15th-century churches. Most of the interior walls
and columns are white, and large windows let in ample light.
Its artistic highlights are elegant, if simple. For most
foreign visitors, the people and celebrated artists may be totally unknown. Many
foreigners seem more interested in finding the mark left by the devil’s right
foot! This mark, resembling a footprint with a small hooked tail at the heel,
is in the floor close to the main rear entrance (more or less in line with the
gift shop). If you stand at this spot, it is impossible to see any of the side
windows, which let in the ample amount of light. Prior to the construction of
the current high altar in the late 19th century, it was even impossible to
see the windows at the front end of the church from this spot, making it seem as
if the church was windowless. According to tradition, the church builder, Joerg
von Halspach, bet the devil that he would build a windowless church, and when the
devil stood at this spot and realized he was duped, he stamped his foot in anger!
An alternative version has the devil visiting in the dark and stomping his foot
in delight at the obvious stupidity of hidden windows.
I guess it doesn’t say much for the artwork in the
church, as this spot seems to be the most favorite of foreign visitors! Parts of
the rose window in the choir, the Annunciation to Maria, date from 1392 and were
used in the church predating the current one. Other works are fine too, but the
artists relatively or thoroughly unknown. However, the light interior of this
large church is most uplifting and well worth visiting. Entrance is free except
for frequent concerts at night.
It is possible to climb the south tower (April to
October). However, the view from the nearby Alte Peter is better and the charge
lower.