I loved visiting old Cairo! And almost missed it. In the States, I thought I would prefer a full day tour of Islamic Cairo, so signed us up for that instead of including Coptic Cairo. After visiting many mosques and the Citadel, I asked Mohammed if we could squeeze in part of Old Cairo that afternoon, and I'm so glad he agreed.
Old Cairo looked very medieval with it's cobbled narrow streets that led past ancient walled churches and homes. It reminded me of Ollyantatambo, Peru, with its narrow, walled "street" where no transportation other than donkeys or horses could travel.
To get to Old Cairo proper, we descended a stairway near the Babylon Fortress, and went through a tunnel to enter the ancient lower level. We passed remnants of old homes whose massive decorated doorways no longer functioned properly, warped over time. Walking here was a relaxing respite from the frenzied touristy places. People were laid back selling their wares, or sitting on benches, listening to music. Many would courteously say "Hello" as we passed, to which we replied "Sebaah ieh heer" or "A ha lan" which pleased them. We passed doorways leading to convent and churches from the 10th century, and went inside a few.
Church of Abu Serga was on our right as we continued down the cobblestone street. A picture of Mary with a place to light candles marked the entrance. This church was built in the 4th century over the crypt where Mary, Joseph and baby Jesus hid after they escaped King Herod's persecution and fled to Egypt. Peering into the crypt, I saw remnants of concrete and sand. I watched three little Egyptian girls quietly enter the room, remove their shoes (like Muslims do in the mosques) and sit next to the barred steps leading to the crypt in respectful silence. The church is very similar in design to the Hanging Church, with it's inlaid ivory, ebony, walnut and cedar patterned into crosses and pentagons. It also has three sanctuaries and two side aisles with pillars and a free standing pulpit. It is the oldest church in Cairo, and was rebuilt in the 10th century. Every June 1st a special mass is held to commemorate the Holy Family's presence.
After exploring a convent and Jewish synagogue, we walked back up to the main level of Old Cairo to see the classical ruin of Babylon's Fortress which was built in 1 AD. Drastically reduced from it's original 60 acre size, it now contains a tower, partial wall and a Coptic church. In the 3rd century, a church Al-Mullaqa was built over part of the fortress. This "Hanging Church" was at one time suspended 13 meters off the ground between two bastions of the fortress. Inside, there are beautiful icons throughout the church, with many symbolic features. The arched roof represents Noah's ark and salvation, 12 pillars represent the disciples, including a black marble one for Judas. Masses are held Fridays and Sundays at 11 am.