Convento de Santa Catalina

Anne Silver
First Reviewer
5 out of 5
Avg. Member Rating
3
Reviews
5
Photos
Editor Pick

A Spanish Ghost Town in the Middle of Arequipa

  • February 2, 2010
  • Rated 5 of 5 by Owen Lipsett from New York, New York
Vying with the Ice Maiden Juanita as Arequipa's most famous attraction, Santa Catalina is one of the colonial architectural highlights not just of Arequipa or Peru, but South America as a whole. It's often described as a city within a city, and while this is a slight exaggeration (it occupies a full city block so "town" would be men appropriate), it's otherwise fully worthy of its considerable fame. The only disappointment is that its citadel (the only of its kind inside a convent in the world) doesn't offer a view of much beyond the convent, but I suppose that in itself is singularly appropriate.



The convent was founded in 1579 and was fully cloistered for the following 391 years. That means that the nuns, once they had entered and spent the obligatory year in the novice's area, couldn't leave - they could only speak to visitors through wooden grilles that resembles confessionals and are among the first things you see when you enter. You also encounter guides, whose services I did not personally employ but whom friend said were excellent. The novice's quarters follow after which various courtyards lead into a series of streets named after cities in Southern Spain. The nuns themselves had to be of pure Spanish blood (an unfortunately typical example of colonial racism) although they were often attended by slaves, an appalling concept to begin with, but even more so since they'd nominally moved to the convent to participate in an austere religious life.



Some sources I've read (not the convent's own materials) have indicated that the life they lived was far from austere and contemplative, although unusually the nuns had a great degree of autonomy in running their own affairs without interference from the local bishop. Depending on whether you believe the convent's materials or those of its critics, he subsequently stepped in either to assert greater episcopal control or to rein in the nuns' sybartic behavior. In 1970, the convent became half-cloistered (meaning the nuns could leave and receive visitors) adn the nuns moved to a modern building, leaving the historic convent as a tourist attraction. Admission fees now support the convent, which in a prior era relied on the "dowries" brought by nuns who joined the convent.



While helpful, none of this history (which is contained in helpful wall plaques) is necessary to appreciate the convent's subtle and someone sensuous delights. It has the general feeling of an immaculately preserved deserted village in Southern Spain, complete with streets, houses, fountain, orchard, and church. This sense is enhanced on Tuesdays and Thursdays (when it remains open until 8 pm instead of the usual 5 pm) when the fires of its kitchens and the candles along its walls are lit. The best time to visit is in the afternoon, when the changing angles of the sun turn its blue and ochre painted walls a variety of subtle hues that seem to encourage contemplation. I think this feeling is entirely consistent with the convent's spiritual and contemplative message - I left with the feeling that its simplicity was its beauty and vice versa.

From journal Trying to Think Like a Local: Studying Spanish in Arequipa

Editor Pick

Convento de Santa Catalina

Convento de Santa Catalina

The Convent of Santa Catalina is the must-see sight of Arequipa. Occupying over two hectares north of the Cathedral, the Convent is a veritable city within a city.

Founded as long ago as 1579 (only five years after the last Incan stronghold was crushed by the Spanish) the convent stood in seclusion for four centuries, its grey sillar walls presenting a forbidding face to the town. Once through the gateway, and beneath the imperative 'Silencio!' stencilled above another world is revealed. The nuns of the convent came from aristocratic families. As 'Brides of Christ', they came with their dowries, the administration of which kept the convent independent. At its peak 450 nuns lived, worked, and prayed within its walls, following the rules set down by St Catherine of Sienna. Their most famous member was Sor Ana de los Angeles, who was reputedly blessed with miraculous visions. Nowadays the sisterhood is much reduced in number, and the remaining nuns have decamped to a distant corner of the site. The remainder of the convent was opened to the public in 1970, after almost four centuries of privacy.

The harsh Peruvian light suits the colours of the stucco walls. Everywhere you will see walls painted in deep blue, dazzling whitewash, and a red the colour of jungle earth after a storm. Flowerbeds further brighten up the place. A network of courtyards, cloisters, and cobbled 'streets' named after Spanish cities leads you into the heart of the labyrinth. It really is a gift for photographers. You have the opportunity to inspect the nuns' cells - plain, but considerably nicer than the habitations of the majority of the subjects of the Spanish viceroy I would wager. The rooms have fine furniture (such as kneeling stools for prayer), and are often equipped with paintings in dark oils. The noble nuns would also bring their servants, who had separate quarters. Past the laundry you reach the chapel and refectory, both in dark wood, and a small museum detailing the history of the convent (in English). You can climb to the roof of the citadel for a view over the roofs of Arequipa.

The convent opens every morning at 9am, and I would recommend an early start. The site is big, and you can easily spend an hour or more wandering its twisting ways. By midday the sun blazes directly down on you, making walking a sweaty effort. Last entry is at 4pm. Entry is 25 soles, and there are guided tours in a number of language (free, but donation expected). I did not bother with a tour, and found the printed guide and signs sufficient for me to both find my way around, and also understand what I was looking at. You do not even have to have an interest in religion to get a lot from a visit.

See www.santacatalina.org.pe for more details.

From journal Ary Quepay - Here I Rest

Santa Catalina Convent

  • October 27, 2000
  • Rated 4 of 5 by Anne Silver from Taos, New Mexico
A city within a city and a photographers delight. Secluded from the public for almost 400 years it was opened in the 1970's. I enjoyed wandering and imagining what life was like there. 450 nuns occupied this city at the height of it's population. Parents would donate a daughter, but would have to give a dowery large enough to support her. While it was claimed that the nuns all had similar conditions, it was obvious to me that some had it better than others. Most of the nuns had servants. It wasn't cheap to be a nun. At a certain point nuns with lesser financial situations were accepted. This combined with many earthquakes brought down the city. Today a small portion is still occupied by nuns.

From journal Mummies alive & well

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