Like most first-time visitors to Rome, I made it a point to visit the Colosseum. My previously dependable Wallpaper* City Guide, however, had little to say on the subject, so I decided to wing it, and perhaps this was fortuitous—the state of having no expectations produced one of my favorite memories of the trip, emerging from the dark of the Colosseo subway station and being suddenly and delightedly surprised by the iconic view of the Colosseum. To reach the Colosseum from the subway station you must cross a busy street, and more than anything else the proximity of the street is what interested me. The Colosseum’s history is obviously fascinating, but perhaps not as fascinating as the fact that this ancient arena still exists in the middle of a very modern city and the lives of thousands of Romans.
When you arrive at the Colosseum, you’re likely to find the line pretty long, so I wanted to mention that I discovered four options for getting in.
1. You can wait in the main Colosseum line. (You’ll have no problem spotting it.) This will take the longest and costs €9.
2. My brother told me you can go to the nearby Palantine Hill and get a ticket for both it and the Colosseum. The line there is apparently much shorter and the price is the same as at the Colosseum.
3. You can skip the line by getting a guided tour from one of the companies that hawk tours outside the Colosseum. Most of these tours cost about €20. In trying to sell one to me, however, the tour operator misrepresented the estimated time spent in line, so I decided to pass on her offer out of spite.
4. The final option is what I opted for, and that was waiting in a shorter line at the Colosseum that also required you to buy an audio tour. This added €4.50 to the €9 admission, but I think the expedited line was worth the extra cost.
I should note that if you do opt for the audio tour, the device that delivers the descriptions is a little awkward. It’s basically a large, wand-shaped cell phone, and it’s somewhat disconcerting to walk around an attraction as grand as the Colosseum while cradling a cell phone between your ear and shoulder. Perhaps it’s my own clumsiness, but trying to negotiate both the wand and my camera flustered me. That said, I think the audio tour was worth it for at least this one historical tidbit: during one particularly elaborate Colosseum spectacle, over 50 bears were released from the jaws of a mechanical whale. Fifty bears!