The Citadel itself, however, can be something of a let down. The museums are poor and the other mosques hold little of interest, particularly compared to some of the more fascinating mosques in the near vicinity (Ibn Tulun, Sultan Hassan). You may be mobbed by Egyptian school children, and foreign women are likely to get leered at quite regularly. Overall I would say that unless you have a deep interest in the history of the Citadel, there are other sites more worthy of your time and money.

The north entrance to the Citadel was closed, so we had to walk around the perimeter of the complex, deftly dodging local drivers, dealers and dealmakers. We finally entered the Citadel through the south entrance, and once inside we were away from the pesky peddlers! There are quite a few interesting buildings within the Citadel walls. The views from inside and atop the Citadel are impressive.

The picturesque Mosque of Mohammed Ali is relatively modern in age and style. It was built from 1824 to 1848, with the tin-sheathed domes being rebuilt in the 1930's. This distinctive mosque, with its slender minarets, is glossier and more touristy than other mosques. Creamy alabaster was used on the exterior and interior for a brighter look. My friend and I sat on one of the carpets critiquing the curious interior design, with an intrusive amount of round globe lamp fixtures and chandeliers that belonged more in a hotel lobby or store rather than in a religious mosque. It was interesting to observe cultural differences, as the devout visitors prayed while the uninformed visitors acted as if they were in a hotel lobby or store.

The Citadel also houses a Military Museum, which can be skipped if you are not a big history buff of modern Egypt. Otherwise, stop in for a quick history lesson on the great victories during various Egyptian wars. There are colorful displays, weapons, statues, uniforms, etc. The Citadel contains other notable structures like the Mosque of Suleyman Pasha, the Mosque of Sultan al-Nasir, Yussef's Well, and the Al-Gawhara Palace.

While we enjoyed the Mohammed Ali Mosque, the striped El-Nasir Muhammad Mosque, the Mosque & Madrasa of Sultan Hasan, & the Ibn Tulun Mosque w/ its spiral minaret, one of my favorites was the beautiful el Rifa'i Mosque across from the Sultan Hasan. The Mihrab (alcove indicating the direction of prayer toward Mecca), is a masterpiece of wood & marble.

From the courtyard, visitors may have a view across the city, theoretically to the pyramids in Giza, if visibility allows (not very chancy, due to the intense air pollution - we only saw the buildings down the hill). It is situated at the Citadel, a fortified area built in 1176 by Salah ad-Din to protect it against attacks by the Crusaders.