The Mohamed Ali Mosque, or the Citadel, is one of the oldest places of worship built on the highest point in Cairo. You can see it from almost anywhere in the city and from it, you can see how big and crowded the city of Cairo is. There’s a lot of smog most of the day, especially in February, when the "humseen" blows -- this is the wind from the desert.

The mosque is situated about 15km from the centre of town. You should take a taxi or a tour can be arranged through your hotel.

Once you enter the holy area, you must take off your shoes to go inside, lay on the floor, and look at the ceiling. From it hangs the most incredible array of light fixtures you have ever seen -- be amazed at the beautiful ancient architecture.

’We don’t need a guide, thank you’.

’I’d rather’, he made a gesture as if cutting his throat, ‘than ask you for money. Besides I’m not a guide, I’m a student’.

He now pushed a card under my nose and read it out to me: Cairo University 2000-2001. ‘It’s my old card’.

Yes, I could see that. The only Arabic I can read are the numbers. He turned out his pockets, ‘I must have left this year’s card at home’.

I smile at my husband. I’m sure this card is real, but I can’t read it. He may well be a cleaner and this is his authorisation to enter the university. But does it matter? We are on our way to the Citadel. Our new friend follows us closely pointing out things, it’s difficult to get rid of him, so we allow him to follow us.

The view from the Citadel is stunning. Below me I can see all of Islamic Cairo in the distance the pyramids of Giza. Only on clear days you can see them. Most of the time Cairo is covered by a hazy blanket of smog, caused by dense traffic, exhaust fumes, 18.000.000 people in Cairo, it’s unbelievable.

The citadel is perched on a hill above Midan Salah ad-Din. There are three mosques and several museums.
Opening hours: 8am–5pm winter/6pm summer. The museums close at 4:30pm. Entrance fee is 20 Egyptian pounds (4 euros). There is a separate entrance fee for each of the museums. If you want to take photos you must buy a photo permit.

In the Police Museum, you can see the assassination room, with a series of photos and captions showing the attempt on president Nasser’s life.

The Gawhara Palace and Museum shows costumes and scenes from court life in the 19th century. Some of the rooms have been reconstructed to show what they must have been like when Mohamed Ali lived here in the 18th century. Mohamed Ali rose to power after Napoleon’s French army had left.

National Military Museum here you can see ceremonial costumes and a scale model of the citadel. But why would you like to see this when you can see the real thing?

Carriage Museum contains some 19th century horse drawn carriages.

The Mohamed Ali Mosque looks like a Turkish mosque and reminded me vaguely of the Aya Sphia in Istanbul. This is the mosque with the two slender minarets.

None of these museums or mosques were particularly interesting. But the view over the city is worth going to the citadel.

We now wanted to continue our walk and who was waiting for us at the gate? Yes, our ‘friend’.

’Goodbye, and thank you’.

’Money’, he begged.

’I thought you’d rather’ I made a gesture as if slit my throat . . . .

Sufism is the ascetic and mystical movement in Islam that places emphasis on achieving oneness with God through things such as music, dance, and poetry. It is said to have originated around the 8-9 Centuries around Iraq, Anatolia, and Iran. Sects however appeared all over the Muslim world, and many were located in Cario. The Sufi tradition is not as strong in Cairo today, but you can still have the opportunity to see the famous music and dancing of the Sufis.

The two hour show is usually located at the Mausoleum of Al-Ghouri near Khan El-Khalili, but it is under restoration and so the Sufi show is now located at the Citadel. At the time of writing (October, 2002) shows were at 7:00 on Sat, Sun, and Wed, and are free. Although it would be best to check when you arrive, as the times and days often change.

The show features members of a local Sufi sect playing traditional instruments such as various drums, cymbals, and flutes. The show also showcases dancing by whirling dervishes. The whirling dervish is said to have originated in Turkey, but is a common practice among Sufis. The dervishes twirl in circles wearing brightly colored and patterned skirts, that when spun produce hypnotic patterns. The dervishes will spin for 45 minutes continuously, varying their pace to match the music, then stop and be completely fine. The dervishes are the highlight of the show, but the enchanting music and beautiful singing do not disappoint.

While there may be better Sufi shows around the Muslim world, this one provides a night of good entertainment, and it's hard to be disappointed when it's free. Also, if you stick around after the show, the Sufis will be more than happy to talk, and you might get invited to a moulid (celebration of the birth of a saint) like I did, and that is a sight to behold.

The fabulous Citadel of Cairo, built by Salah Ad-Din (Saladin) in 1176 has seen its fair share of history. It was held by Crusaders, was the home of the Mamluke and Ottoman rulers, and was the site of Muhammad Ali's famous massacre of the Mamlukes. The fortress even housed British and Egyptian soldiers. It is now a fabulous museum that offers spectacular views of the city.

To get to the Citadel it is best to take a taxi. Just get in and say "Al-Qalaa." It should be no more than 6 LE from downtown. The main enterance is on Sharia' Salah Salem, and it will cost you 20 LE, or 10 LE for students, to get in. Beware, the Citadel closes at 5:00 and if you want to see everything, expect to spend 2.5-3 hours.

When you enter you will be in the Southern Enclosure and will pass a few, mostly pointless shops. Immediately follow the signs to the Muhammad Ali mosque. Love it or hate it, most hate it.

The Muhammad Ali mosque towers on top of the Citadel and is impressive in size. It was modeled after the Ottoman mosques, however the inside looks like a cheap attempt to build a "modern" mosque resembling the Dolmabahçe Palace in Istanbul. Nonetheless, it is quite the site, and worth seeing. Even more impressive are the views from the top of the Citadel. You can see all of Cairo, even the Pyramids, depending on how hazy it is.

Also worth seeing in the Southern Enclosure are the Mosque of An-Nasir Muhammad, and the Gawhara Palace. The An-Nasir mosque is a nice Mamluke mosque and the Gawhara is the palace of Muhammad Ali. There is also a nice Police Museum. There is also a nice Sufi dancing show in the Southern Enclosure on Sat, Mon, and Wed nights (see my journal on Sufi dancing).

After the Southern Enclosure, head up to the Northern Enclosure and the Military museum. The military museum offers a nice collection of artifacts from Egypt's Pharonic, Mamluke, and Ottoman pasts, as well as the present. If you do not know too much about Egyptian history you might be lost in some parts, but it is a nice museum worth seeing. Note though, that you have to pay to use cameras, so don't bother taking pictures.

Also in the Northern Enclosure is an interesting Carriage Museum, an Antiquities museum (although it's all in Arabic) and the very nice Mosque of Suleyman Pasha.

That about does it for the Citadel, but if it is still early and you aren't tired yet, I suggest walking back around to the bottom of the Citadel and checking out the Mosque and Madrassa of Hassan Pasha. A massive construction built in the 14th century. There is also the impressive Mosque of Ar-Rifai, which houses the remains of such notables as the Shah of Iran and King Farouk, and if you give a little "baksheesh" (tip) you can see the tombs.

The Citadel is a mix of different historical periods, which houses a few remaining Mamluk mosques as well as a great deal of Ottoman architecture. The Mosque of Mohamed Ali itself is quite spectacular, particularly at night when lit up. It is the largest mosque in Cairo, and is worth seeing just for that. The reason for its double minarets is interesting--The Ottoman Sultan at the time declared that only mosques located in Constantinople could have more than one minaret. Mohamed Ali declared in response that he was building one with two, and if the Sultan had a problem with that, well, come and get me. The Sultan, of course, did not.

The Citadel itself, however, can be something of a let down. The museums are poor and the other mosques hold little of interest, particularly compared to some of the more fascinating mosques in the near vicinity (Ibn Tulun, Sultan Hassan). You may be mobbed by Egyptian school children, and foreign women are likely to get leered at quite regularly. Overall I would say that unless you have a deep interest in the history of the Citadel, there are other sites more worthy of your time and money.