Cairo

Travelers' Takes

Rates and Deals

Citadel

More Photos
Adelaide
Adelaide
First Reviewer
4 out of 5
Avg. Member Rating
10
Reviews
17
Photos
Sort by: Most Recent|Positive|Negative|Most Useful
1-5 of 10
Editor Pick

3. The Citadel

3. The Citadel

The Citadel really is the crown of Old Cairo. Fortified in the twelfth-century by Salah al-Din (known in the west as Saladin, of Crusades fame), the walled compound perches atop a rocky outcrop just off the western edge of the arid Muqqatam Hills that have long provided a natural eastern limit to Cairo's expansion (and which now bristle with military equipment). A visit treats you to an awesome view over the dun huddle of Islamic Cairo, minarets piercing the smog. It also holds two mosques of particular interest - the ostentatious Mosque of Mohammed Ali that towers over the city, and the smaller and prettier Mosque of Sultan al-Nasir.

The close-packed eastern section of Cairo is devoid of Metro lines, so the easiest way to reach the Citadel is to take a taxi and ask for 'al-Qalaa'. Even if you are over on the west bank of the Nile, do not agree to pay any more than LE10. This will have you deposited by the main entrance on Sharia Salah Salem.

Of course, I was walking, so from Ibn Tulun and the Gayer-Anderson Museum I headed east along Sharia Ibn Tulun. This disgorges you at Midan Salah al-Din, one of Cairo's major intersections, where taxis and trucks whizz past. Three mosques punctuate the Midan - the large Rifai and Sultan Hassan to the west, and the smaller Mahmudiyya to the north. To the east rises the bulk of the Citadel. There is no public entrance here now, but you can see the exterior of the Bab al-Azab. It was here that Mohammed Ali ruthlessly consolidated his grab for power in 1811. Having invited the ruling Mamlukes to dinner at the Citadel, Ali saw them off, only to trap them in the narrow confines of the gate and slaughter them as they left. Now all that you can access are some low crumbling bastions, ripe with the smell of urine and faeces (watch out for needles underfoot).

On foot you must trudge around the southern edge of the Citadel down Salah al-Din and Salah Salem. You cannot miss the sloping road leading up to the gatehouse. Entrance is LE40, though there are often queues as you pass through the checkpoints. Inside the way leads left past souvenir stands to the al-Gawhera Palace, then right down a long straight enclosed road to the Mosque of Sultan al-Nasir.

The Mosque of Sultan al-Nasir is a pretty little thing, blessedly plain compared to the grandiose Mohammed Ali. After removing my shoes, a guide came up to show me items of interest. He explained that when this mosque was built in the 14th-century it was modelled on that of Cordoba in Spain. He pointed out that the columns that surrounded the courtyard were reused from older structures as you could see from the different capitols - pharoanic, Greek, Coptic Christian. Here was stone from Aswan, here was Italian Carrera marble (indeed the mosque may once have approached the same level of gaudiness as that of Mohammed Ali; once it was panelled with marble, but that panelling was stripped and hoiked off to Turkey by the evocatively named 'Selim the Grim'). Instead my guide showed me the wooden minbar (pulpit). This was constructed of a series of carefully tesellated pieces, each intricately carved in Islamic designs. Above the banded stonework the dome gleamed like jade. The man was so informative, and so clearly proud of the mosque, that I happily handed over a tip without being prompted. Of all the mosques I visited in Cairo, I think this one, with its intimate proportions, was my favourite.

Turning right out of the mosque you see the bombastic entance way to the Military Museum, its approach lined with tanks. I did not enter here, but if you pass through the arch there is a passage to your right that allows to go further into the quieter and less visited Northern Enclosure of the Citadel.

If you turn left instead you can climb up to the highest point, crowned by the Mosque of Sultan Ali. This Mosque can be seen from any minaret in the old town, its huge dome shining in the sunlight and its two pencil-thin minarets standing in stark contrast. On closer inspection I have to admit I found it gaudy and ostentatious. The intricacy and craftsmanship exhibited in the al-Nasir is not present in this 19th-century offering. Instead Ali went for scale. Inside tour parties slump across the ill-matched carpets below overly grandiose chandeliers. Behind a grill to one side lies the white marble tomb of the Sultan. The whole thing seemed more reminiscent of a theatre lobby than a place of worship.

To be fair, I did like its courtyard (accessed through the mosque), even if it was slightly chintzy. A narrow clasically-inspired colonnade rings the marble space. A shaded ablutions fountain stands in the middle. There is also an ornate clock-tower, a gift from Louis Philippe of France. The clock was a swap for the obelisk which now stands in Paris' Place de la Concorde, and has apparently never worked, a fitting tribute for Mohammed Ali, a man who managed to mix instinctive barbarism (as seen in his slaughter of the Mamlukes) with a desire to ape the west, and never really succeeded in getting the best out of either tradition.

One final sight in the Citadel comes if you follow the signs to the Police Museum. This leads on to a terrace with wondeful views north-west over the old city, ranging from the distinctive square outline of the Mosque of Ibn Tulun , over the cluster of mosques at Midan Salah al-Din, and then north where the close-packed streets and tenements of the khaki-coloured Islamic Cairo huddle, pierced by minarets too numerous to count. It was north that I would be pressing on for the next step in my walking tour.

From journal Conquering Al-Qahira: a Walk Through Old Cairo

Mohamed Ali Mosque or Citadel

  • March 2, 2004
  • Rated 5 of 5 by Chrissy1 from Sydney, Australia
The Mohamed Ali Mosque, or the Citadel, is one of the oldest places of worship built on the highest point in Cairo. You can see it from almost anywhere in the city and from it, you can see how big and crowded the city of Cairo is. There’s a lot of smog most of the day, especially in February, when the "humseen" blows -- this is the wind from the desert.

The mosque is situated about 15km from the centre of town. You should take a taxi or a tour can be arranged through your hotel.

Once you enter the holy area, you must take off your shoes to go inside, lay on the floor, and look at the ceiling. From it hangs the most incredible array of light fixtures you have ever seen -- be amazed at the beautiful ancient architecture.

From journal Land of the Pharoahs

Editor Pick

Cairo Citadel

  • June 22, 2003
  • Rated 4 of 5 by Marianne from Eindhoven, Netherlands
’We don’t need a guide, thank you’.

’I’d rather’, he made a gesture as if cutting his throat, ‘than ask you for money. Besides I’m not a guide, I’m a student’.

He now pushed a card under my nose and read it out to me: Cairo University 2000-2001. ‘It’s my old card’.

Yes, I could see that. The only Arabic I can read are the numbers. He turned out his pockets, ‘I must have left this year’s card at home’.

I smile at my husband. I’m sure this card is real, but I can’t read it. He may well be a cleaner and this is his authorisation to enter the university. But does it matter? We are on our way to the Citadel. Our new friend follows us closely pointing out things, it’s difficult to get rid of him, so we allow him to follow us.

The view from the Citadel is stunning. Below me I can see all of Islamic Cairo in the distance the pyramids of Giza. Only on clear days you can see them. Most of the time Cairo is covered by a hazy blanket of smog, caused by dense traffic, exhaust fumes, 18.000.000 people in Cairo, it’s unbelievable.

The citadel is perched on a hill above Midan Salah ad-Din. There are three mosques and several museums.
Opening hours: 8am–5pm winter/6pm summer. The museums close at 4:30pm. Entrance fee is 20 Egyptian pounds (4 euros). There is a separate entrance fee for each of the museums. If you want to take photos you must buy a photo permit.

In the Police Museum, you can see the assassination room, with a series of photos and captions showing the attempt on president Nasser’s life.

The Gawhara Palace and Museum shows costumes and scenes from court life in the 19th century. Some of the rooms have been reconstructed to show what they must have been like when Mohamed Ali lived here in the 18th century. Mohamed Ali rose to power after Napoleon’s French army had left.

National Military Museum here you can see ceremonial costumes and a scale model of the citadel. But why would you like to see this when you can see the real thing?

Carriage Museum contains some 19th century horse drawn carriages.

The Mohamed Ali Mosque looks like a Turkish mosque and reminded me vaguely of the Aya Sphia in Istanbul. This is the mosque with the two slender minarets.

None of these museums or mosques were particularly interesting. But the view over the city is worth going to the citadel.

We now wanted to continue our walk and who was waiting for us at the gate? Yes, our ‘friend’.

’Goodbye, and thank you’.

’Money’, he begged.

’I thought you’d rather’ I made a gesture as if slit my throat . . . .

From journal Cairo: Love It or Hate It

Editor Pick

Sufi Music and dancing

  • October 3, 2002
  • Rated 4 of 5 by HobWahid from Damascus, Syria
Sufi Music and dancing

Sufism is the ascetic and mystical movement in Islam that places emphasis on achieving oneness with God through things such as music, dance, and poetry. It is said to have originated around the 8-9 Centuries around Iraq, Anatolia, and Iran. Sects however appeared all over the Muslim world, and many were located in Cario. The Sufi tradition is not as strong in Cairo today, but you can still have the opportunity to see the famous music and dancing of the Sufis.

The two hour show is usually located at the Mausoleum of Al-Ghouri near Khan El-Khalili, but it is under restoration and so the Sufi show is now located at the Citadel. At the time of writing (October, 2002) shows were at 7:00 on Sat, Sun, and Wed, and are free. Although it would be best to check when you arrive, as the times and days often change.

The show features members of a local Sufi sect playing traditional instruments such as various drums, cymbals, and flutes. The show also showcases dancing by whirling dervishes. The whirling dervish is said to have originated in Turkey, but is a common practice among Sufis. The dervishes twirl in circles wearing brightly colored and patterned skirts, that when spun produce hypnotic patterns. The dervishes will spin for 45 minutes continuously, varying their pace to match the music, then stop and be completely fine. The dervishes are the highlight of the show, but the enchanting music and beautiful singing do not disappoint.

While there may be better Sufi shows around the Muslim world, this one provides a night of good entertainment, and it's hard to be disappointed when it's free. Also, if you stick around after the show, the Sufis will be more than happy to talk, and you might get invited to a moulid (celebration of the birth of a saint) like I did, and that is a sight to behold.

From journal A Year In Cairo

Editor Pick

The Citadel

  • September 29, 2002
  • Rated 4 of 5 by HobWahid from Damascus, Syria
The Citadel

The fabulous Citadel of Cairo, built by Salah Ad-Din (Saladin) in 1176 has seen its fair share of history. It was held by Crusaders, was the home of the Mamluke and Ottoman rulers, and was the site of Muhammad Ali's famous massacre of the Mamlukes. The fortress even housed British and Egyptian soldiers. It is now a fabulous museum that offers spectacular views of the city.

To get to the Citadel it is best to take a taxi. Just get in and say "Al-Qalaa." It should be no more than 6 LE from downtown. The main enterance is on Sharia' Salah Salem, and it will cost you 20 LE, or 10 LE for students, to get in. Beware, the Citadel closes at 5:00 and if you want to see everything, expect to spend 2.5-3 hours.

When you enter you will be in the Southern Enclosure and will pass a few, mostly pointless shops. Immediately follow the signs to the Muhammad Ali mosque. Love it or hate it, most hate it.

The Muhammad Ali mosque towers on top of the Citadel and is impressive in size. It was modeled after the Ottoman mosques, however the inside looks like a cheap attempt to build a "modern" mosque resembling the Dolmabahçe Palace in Istanbul. Nonetheless, it is quite the site, and worth seeing. Even more impressive are the views from the top of the Citadel. You can see all of Cairo, even the Pyramids, depending on how hazy it is.

Also worth seeing in the Southern Enclosure are the Mosque of An-Nasir Muhammad, and the Gawhara Palace. The An-Nasir mosque is a nice Mamluke mosque and the Gawhara is the palace of Muhammad Ali. There is also a nice Police Museum. There is also a nice Sufi dancing show in the Southern Enclosure on Sat, Mon, and Wed nights (see my journal on Sufi dancing).

After the Southern Enclosure, head up to the Northern Enclosure and the Military museum. The military museum offers a nice collection of artifacts from Egypt's Pharonic, Mamluke, and Ottoman pasts, as well as the present. If you do not know too much about Egyptian history you might be lost in some parts, but it is a nice museum worth seeing. Note though, that you have to pay to use cameras, so don't bother taking pictures.

Also in the Northern Enclosure is an interesting Carriage Museum, an Antiquities museum (although it's all in Arabic) and the very nice Mosque of Suleyman Pasha.

That about does it for the Citadel, but if it is still early and you aren't tired yet, I suggest walking back around to the bottom of the Citadel and checking out the Mosque and Madrassa of Hassan Pasha. A massive construction built in the 14th century. There is also the impressive Mosque of Ar-Rifai, which houses the remains of such notables as the Shah of Iran and King Farouk, and if you give a little "baksheesh" (tip) you can see the tombs.

From journal A Year In Cairo

Sort by: Most Recent|Positive|Negative|Most Useful
1-5 of 10

Compare Cairo Rates

1. Enter travel information

City

2. Select websites to compare rates

Each selected website will open a new window.

Helpful Cairo Links

Cairo Travel Deals