We decided to go to a beach called Cinnamon Bay. It's a little bit farther than Trunk Bay, but we heard the snorkeling was better there and the beach was really nice. When we got to Cinnamon Bay, we started walking down trails to the beach and discovered that there was a huge campground where you can camp on the beach for $25 a day. Many people were doing this and I heard you have to reserve a spot 1 year in advance; if you’re into camping, this is a good spot. Cinnamon Bay has a little island in the ocean you can swim out to and snorkel all around the rocks. They also have a little snack bar and every water sport rental (non-motorized) that you can think of. They also have public showers and bathrooms there. We liked the beach so much, we went back twice. It's not as popular as Trunk Bay, so it was nice to be away from the crowds.

However, most of the island’s more challenging trails can be hiked, even by an out-of-shape couch potato like me, using a simple ploy: skip the uphill part by driving to the uppermost point on the trail and hiking down from there. That’s the strategy my group and I used to take on the Cinnamon Bay Trail, accompanied by a knowledgeable young guide from A Walk in the Park Tours.

As we started down the trail, our guide mentioned that the forest surrounding us was very different from what it had been a few hundred years ago. In the colonial period, the entire island had been cleared of trees to make way for sugar plantations. So this forest was all new growth and still quite young, and it would be another 200 years before the forest would be back to its previous state. Too bad we wouldn’t live to see it!

Indeed, the marks of the plantations were still in evidence everywhere. We often passed low walls of rock, reminders that this hill had once been terraced, and the remains of the irrigation system could also be seen in places. The guide also noted that St. John’s forest was a very dry one, because the small trees didn’t produce the amount of evaporation needed to precipitate frequent bouts of rain.

Overall, the trail was very pretty, and there were a couple of spots with fantastic views down the hillside and across Cinnamon Bay. And if I could hike down it without a problem, just about anyone can. Do wear hiking boots, though, as it’s rough, rocky, and slippery in places! (One of my companions was wearing slip-on sandals, and he was definitely not a happy camper.) As for hiking it uphill—well, you can do it, but be prepared for a challenge!

If you hike it downhill as I did, there’s another nice bonus in store for you at the bottom: an interesting complex of colonial ruins. And right across the road is the Cinnamon Bay campground and beach, where you can relax with a refreshing drink and cool off with a swim in the ocean.

There is a fairly strong current that you have to swim against to get out to the island. Also, there are a lot of boats that anchor in the bay, so be sure to stay within the marked boundaries of the swimming area.

We hired a car to tour the island and managed to hit all the major snorkelling spots below. You can go from place to place and will probably enjoy it most if you follow this order:

Trunk Bay: beautful spot to start your adventure but is very crowded, as many curise ships tend to stop there. You pay a small fee to enter the natural park and can leave you stuff on the beach (safely) before entering the water. You probably only need an hour or so to see it all.

Cinnamon Bay- This is a few minutes further than Trunk Bay and can be easily accessed via car. The waters are clear and there is a variety of sealife to see. There are kayaks available for those who want them, although the current can get strong.

Waterlemon Cay - definately the highpoint when it comes to snorkelling on St. John. You leave your car by the ruins (I forget the name) and have to walk about 15mins to reach the beach. A tip is to enter the water from the beach, rather than trying towalk past the rocks, as it becomes very difficult to get into the water. This place was amazing. I saw stingrays, sea turtles and hundreds of beautiful star fish. A must see!

I became quite intimate with one particular school of sargeant majors and, less happily, with a very large barracuda. Although this barracuda never came closer than 15 feet from me; but, he seemed to appear like magic everytime I entered the water. He was probably about five feet long and only appeared when I got into the water. My husband swam more often that I did; but, this fish never tailed him like it did me. This was on one visit only. It has not happened on other visits. Maybe he was attracted to my very vivid one-piece swimsuit with hot pink and metallic silver designs. At any rate, this snorkeling beats any I've ever done--even in the Caymans and Hawaii--for diversity of coral reef life and ease of access from our cottage abode. Just don't wear a hot pink and silver metallic one-piece.