The `Rockefeller of the East’, Cheong Fatt Tze (1840-1916) was a Hakka tycoon and mandarin born to a poor farmer family; he came to Batavia (now Jakarta) when he was 16 and became a water-carrier. Over the years, Cheong Fatt Tze made his fortune and built an empire encompassing everything from coconut and rubber plantations to tin mining, silk weaving, stone carving, shipping, trade and banking- across China, Indonesia and Malaysia. Designated a mandarin and a minister by the Chinese government, Cheong Fatt Tze built his mansion in his favourite place- Penang- in 1880. The indigo-tinted mansion, a delightful combination of Oriental and Western influences, is an embodiment of the man himself- traditional Chinese yet modern Western. 38 rooms, 5 courtyards, 7 staircases, 22 `yin-yang’ windows (wooden shutter- windows, so called because the shutter grooves form the yin and yang symbol when closed), form the mansion, in which the upper storey was used by the family, the lower as Cheong Fatt Tze’s offices. Indian indigo mixed with lime and cartilage was used to paint its exterior (which is why it was also called `La Maison Bleu’).
Dark teak, coated with seven layers of shellac for durability, forms much of the flooring and staircases; the ornate clay tiles of the floor and balconies came all the way from England. All across the house there’s a profusion of decoration: stunning stained-glass windows, carefully carved, gold- painted wooden screens (covered with a profusion of traditional Chinese `auspicious’ symbols- flowers, dragons, bats and phoenixes). Across the mansion’s façade, on the roof and the main gate is elaborately crafted `chien nien’- a now-nearly-extinct form of tilework done by using shards broken from ceramic bowls to create 3-dimensional and 2-dimensional mosaics.
The mansion holds many portraits and photographs of the man himself and his favourite wife (Cheong Fatt Tze had eight wives). There are other antiques too- chamberpots (yuck!!), an abacus, silk clothing, bamboo pillows, and a few bits of old furniture are all that actually remain of the Cheong family’s possessions.
After Cheong Fatt Tze’s death, the family scattered and the mansion fell into disrepair until it was bought in the 1990s by a group of heritage lovers, who invested heavily in restoring it. Seven years later, it’s a World Heritage site, a fine peek into the life of China’s `last mandarin and first capitalist’. Purple waterlilies bloom in a stone tub on the front lawn, where Cheong Fatt Tze had planted lotuses; a Victorian lamppost from Scotland stands sentinel above them.
16 rooms of the mansion are today guest rooms, and are rented out at RM195 per double bedroom per night, including breakfast. They’re nice, cosy rooms with quiet verandahs where you can sit in the shade of green bamboos (like everything else here, a symbol- in this case, of durability and freshness). But even if you don’t stay here, you can visit the mansion- there are daily hour-long guided tours at 11 and 3. The entry fee’s RM10.